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04/26/2007 10:41:50 AM · #1 |
Can anyone recommend an inexpensive light meter?
I want it for studio work, outside shooting portraits... etc.
I just don't know what to get.
They seem to be really complicated with lots of little buttons that I don't know what do with (not to mention, kinda pricey) ... I just want something basic that gets the job done.
Anyone? :)
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04/26/2007 10:50:24 AM · #2 |
I use a Polaris meter - great little meeter, basic with no bells or whistles that you don't need and reasonably priced ($159).
Polaris Meter
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04/26/2007 10:52:32 AM · #3 |
DigiSix
I used to own this one. Very simple to use. |
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04/26/2007 10:54:40 AM · #4 |
Lovely.
Thank you Cindi and CEJ. :)
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04/26/2007 10:56:43 AM · #5 |
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04/26/2007 11:55:45 AM · #6 |
Originally posted by magenmarie:
I just want something basic that gets the job done.
Anyone? :) |
What job do you want it to do? Measure ambient light? strobe? both? Do you need/want a spotmeter?
I have this one: sekonic L-358, but it may be more meter than you need.
This is another sekonic meter that is less expensive and complicated, but will meter ambient light and strobe: sekonic L-308S |
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04/26/2007 12:24:33 PM · #7 |
I have this one. Got it while it was on sale for $159 easy to use and works quite well.
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04/26/2007 01:04:38 PM · #8 |
There are all sorts of 'buttons' for a variety of uses...
My Sekonic has modes - ambient, flash (wireless, wired or wait ways of measuring), and will give the % of ambient and flash.
You can set 2 ISOs.
You can pick what you want the meter to tell you - you set the shutter and it'll tell you the aperture, or vice versa.
And it can be calibrated to your camera.
You then have the dome - down/recessed for measuring a light, and up/out for a more global measurement. I don't have the spot attachment - my camera can kinda do that anyway.
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04/26/2007 01:31:32 PM · #9 |
Check this thread.
//dpchallenge.com/forum.php?action=read&FORUM_THREAD_ID=423321&highlight=luna%20pro%20light%20meter
I got a Gossen Luna Pro-F (analog-link has reviews) and works great. I got mine on EBay for $45. BHPHoto is at $179. My post is the last (or first). There is a link that brings it up on Ebay.
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04/26/2007 02:17:14 PM · #10 |
I don't have an actual opinion, having never used one, but this might be an interesting read:
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04/26/2007 02:20:34 PM · #11 |
| why not just use the built in light meter and histogram? |
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04/26/2007 02:22:50 PM · #12 |
Originally posted by eamurdock:
I don't have an actual opinion, having never used one, but this might be an interesting read: |
It's interesting, but somewhat misleading. Part of it has to do with the fact that the histogram displayed on your camera is NOT based on the RAW data, but rather on the in camera 8-bit jpg conversion of the camera's higher bit RAW data. |
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04/26/2007 05:10:08 PM · #13 |
Originally posted by Spazmo99:
Originally posted by eamurdock:
I don't have an actual opinion, having never used one, but this might be an interesting read: |
It's interesting, but somewhat misleading. Part of it has to do with the fact that the histogram displayed on your camera is NOT based on the RAW data, but rather on the in camera 8-bit jpg conversion of the camera's higher bit RAW data. |
Do you think if it were at 16 bit it would make a big difference?
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04/26/2007 06:03:33 PM · #14 |
Originally posted by Megatherian:
why not just use the built in light meter and histogram? |
several reasons, and if your using flash (other than eTTL) you need a meter to measure the flash to set the camera. If you have one flash only, perhaps you can make do. But have 2 or 3 or 5...if you need the main light 1 stop over the fill, and the kicker equal to the main, and the nair light perhaps 1 stop under the main...ain't no histogram gonna do that!
Originally posted by fir3bird:
Do you think if it were at 16 bit it would make a big difference? |
On my 30D (and i assume other canons as well) i get 'blinkies' on blown out portions of an image on my camera's LCD - but the RAW file is about 1/3 stop darker/less exposure. So yes, it can make a difference.
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04/26/2007 06:05:09 PM · #15 |
Originally posted by fir3bird:
Originally posted by Spazmo99:
Originally posted by eamurdock:
I don't have an actual opinion, having never used one, but this might be an interesting read: |
It's interesting, but somewhat misleading. Part of it has to do with the fact that the histogram displayed on your camera is NOT based on the RAW data, but rather on the in camera 8-bit jpg conversion of the camera's higher bit RAW data. |
Do you think if it were at 16 bit it would make a big difference? |
No, but I think if it were NON-jpg it would. |
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04/26/2007 08:48:47 PM · #16 |
When you say Kicker, do you mean side light? I have been trying to adjust my lights for the past couple of nights and almost got it but am still a bit off. I have two samples in my portfolio one has the Blinkies!!...
Originally posted by Prof_Fate:
But have 2 or 3 or 5...if you need the main light 1 stop over the fill, and the kicker equal to the main, and the nair light perhaps 1 stop under the main...ain't no histogram gonna do that! |
Blinkies, I learned a new camera term today woohoo... Originally posted by Prof_Fate:
i get 'blinkies' |
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07/10/2008 04:49:15 PM · #17 |
| can u get cream from the doctor if you get blinkies ? |
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07/10/2008 05:17:16 PM · #18 |
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07/10/2008 05:22:03 PM · #19 |
Light meters are useless! :-P
Let's not start that one again... I'll keep my mouth shut this time. |
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07/10/2008 05:41:18 PM · #20 |
Originally posted by Prof_Fate:
Originally posted by Megatherian:
why not just use the built in light meter and histogram? |
several reasons, and if your using flash (other than eTTL) you need a meter to measure the flash to set the camera. If you have one flash only, perhaps you can make do. But have 2 or 3 or 5...if you need the main light 1 stop over the fill, and the kicker equal to the main, and the nair light perhaps 1 stop under the main...ain't no histogram gonna do that! |
Actually, I use three strobes all the time without a light meter. Once you're comfortable with your equipment, you start to learn what settings it will take to set it all up right. I can get my lights set corrently in a scene with just a few minutes of chimping.
Will the meter get you there faster? I dunno, maybe. But I tend to think that if you're metering and then adjusting lights to tune them in, or chimping and then tuning...what's the difference?
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07/10/2008 08:53:56 PM · #21 |
Originally posted by OdysseyF22:
Originally posted by Prof_Fate:
Originally posted by Megatherian:
why not just use the built in light meter and histogram? |
several reasons, and if your using flash (other than eTTL) you need a meter to measure the flash to set the camera. If you have one flash only, perhaps you can make do. But have 2 or 3 or 5...if you need the main light 1 stop over the fill, and the kicker equal to the main, and the nair light perhaps 1 stop under the main...ain't no histogram gonna do that! |
Actually, I use three strobes all the time without a light meter. Once you're comfortable with your equipment, you start to learn what settings it will take to set it all up right. I can get my lights set corrently in a scene with just a few minutes of chimping.
Will the meter get you there faster? I dunno, maybe. But I tend to think that if you're metering and then adjusting lights to tune them in, or chimping and then tuning...what's the difference? |
Your camera records with 12 bits.
When you chimp to set exposure, you're only using 8 bits of information to decide how to collect 12 bits of information.
That's not being smart. |
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07/10/2008 09:44:01 PM · #22 |
Originally posted by Spazmo99:
Your camera records with 12 bits.
When you chimp to set exposure, you're only using 8 bits of information to decide how to collect 12 bits of information.
That's not being smart. |
Whether your camera records 12 bits, or 14 bits as newer cameras do, or even 16 bits as I'm sure some future models will, it has nothing whatever to do with the accuracy of the histogram, even if the histogram is based on the in-camera JPEG (which it most certainly is).
What *does* have an impact on how accurately the histogram reflects the RAW data is how the camera is set up to convert to JPEG. If it's set up for high contrast and high saturation, the (JPEG-based) histogram will show clipping far sooner than the RAW file. If it is set for neutral color rendition and low contrast, it will show clipping typically only a little sooner than the RAW file (there is almost always about 1/3 to 1/2 stop of recoverable information above the white clip point). |
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07/10/2008 09:50:34 PM · #23 |
Originally posted by Spazmo99:
Originally posted by OdysseyF22:
Originally posted by Prof_Fate:
Originally posted by Megatherian:
why not just use the built in light meter and histogram? |
several reasons, and if your using flash (other than eTTL) you need a meter to measure the flash to set the camera. If you have one flash only, perhaps you can make do. But have 2 or 3 or 5...if you need the main light 1 stop over the fill, and the kicker equal to the main, and the nair light perhaps 1 stop under the main...ain't no histogram gonna do that! |
Actually, I use three strobes all the time without a light meter. Once you're comfortable with your equipment, you start to learn what settings it will take to set it all up right. I can get my lights set corrently in a scene with just a few minutes of chimping.
Will the meter get you there faster? I dunno, maybe. But I tend to think that if you're metering and then adjusting lights to tune them in, or chimping and then tuning...what's the difference? |
Your camera records with 12 bits.
When you chimp to set exposure, you're only using 8 bits of information to decide how to collect 12 bits of information.
That's not being smart. |
Perhaps, but I usually manage to get really darn close to my target exposure, usually only having to boost it by .15 to .50 in Camera Raw. And several times I've been dead on.
I see a meter as being another piece of expensive equipment to haul around with me. I thought about getting one but the Strobist group talked me out of it; they said I'd learn to get it right without one, and I did.
Guess it just depends on what kind of person you are; some like extra tools, some like to wing it.
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07/10/2008 10:00:05 PM · #24 |
Originally posted by Spazmo99:
Your camera records with 12 bits.
When you chimp to set exposure, you're only using 8 bits of information to decide how to collect 12 bits of information.
That's not being smart. |
Alright, I said I wouldn't get involved...
...BUT, why is it that you insist on attacking the intelligence of anyone who disagrees with you? |
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07/10/2008 10:39:10 PM · #25 |
Originally posted by idnic:
I use a Polaris meter - great little meeter, basic with no bells or whistles that you don't need and reasonably priced ($159).
Polaris Meter |
I can vouch for this meter. Does a great job and great price. I actually paid 90 dollars on ebay from an old guy selling his dead brother's photo gear. |
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