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12/04/2017 08:55:53 PM · #26
Are there any good tutorials on snowscape photography? Or any tips someone who doesn’t live in America’s heater can give me? Lol.
12/04/2017 08:58:50 PM · #27
Originally posted by mbrutus2009:

Are there any good tutorials on snowscape photography? Or any tips someone who doesn’t live in America’s heater can give me? Lol.


overexpose.
12/04/2017 08:59:43 PM · #28
Originally posted by vawendy:

Originally posted by mbrutus2009:

Are there any good tutorials on snowscape photography? Or any tips someone who doesn’t live in America’s heater can give me? Lol.


overexpose.


I'll explain more once we get there. Tangy and I still haven't received our tickets, yet. Have you mailed them?
12/04/2017 09:09:23 PM · #29
Originally posted by vawendy:

Originally posted by mbrutus2009:

Are there any good tutorials on snowscape photography? Or any tips someone who doesn’t live in America’s heater can give me? Lol.


overexpose.

These days I'm not sure I'd recommend that term ...

When using any mode which depends on metering (i/e/ not Manual mode) the camera will try and make any overly bright scene (e.g field of snow) into a standard 18% gray and under-expose -- use Manual mode or exposure-compensation to keep the snow white.
12/04/2017 09:30:37 PM · #30
Dink with your white balance once you get there. Check how your camera's Metering wants to deal with the reflection of the light. Pay attention to the angles of sun and sky. If you're diligent early on, you'll get the hang of it.
12/05/2017 09:28:18 AM · #31
Originally posted by NikonJeb:

Dink with your white balance once you get there. Check how your camera's Metering wants to deal with the reflection of the light. Pay attention to the angles of sun and sky. If you're diligent early on, you'll get the hang of it.


I plan on shooting RAW when I'm there. Obviously the better it is in camera the less work it is on me but my white balance shouldn't be much of an issue.

That said does the camera think white balance is way off when shooting snowy landscapes?

As for over exposing... That's gunna be an interesting way to shoot since I've never thought about purposefully over exposing a landscape... Should be interesting.

Reflections scare me, should I use a polarized filter pretty much the entire time? Or is it a different type of reflection your referring to?
12/05/2017 09:50:57 AM · #32
A polarizer will have quite different effects depending on the position of the sun. For example, you can't really make a stitched panorama using one, as the effect will change as you rotate the camera.
12/05/2017 09:57:56 AM · #33
Originally posted by GeneralE:

A polarizer will have quite different effects depending on the position of the sun. For example, you can't really make a stitched panorama using one, as the effect will change as you rotate the camera.


Glad you said this because I've never done a pano before and I would have probably tried to do it with the polarizer on...
12/05/2017 10:07:36 AM · #34
I think that's what created the uneven sky in this one -- I know I have some worse examples but I guess I havn't posted them here.



ETA; If you are planning to stitch a pano, make sure you have the exposure, aperture, and focus fixed so that it will be the same for all frames; it's usually best to shoot in portrait orientation and with not too wide a lens or you'll get distortion:

Vertical panos can give some interesting effects too ...

Message edited by author 2017-12-05 10:15:13.
12/05/2017 03:23:04 PM · #35
Pano's are for sure on the list of things to take. I have been watching a lot of Tomas Heaton on youtube and he always says to take the extra time to make sure your camera is 100% level. I tend to be in a rush all the time so I am sure that this will be hard for me to sit down, relax and take my time.

We'll see how it goes.
12/05/2017 03:53:56 PM · #36
Take the time if you have the time -- don't lose the light or clouds trying to get the tripod level. Almost all of the panos in my gallery are handheld -- you can tell from the ones which are uncropped how much error there was.

Ideally you have the camera adjusted on the tripod in such a way that the axis of rotation is directly under the focal point of the lens (I think that's how it goes) -- in practice using a tripod which is not perfectly level can actually give a worse result, as the image will slant in such a way as to be almost impossible to correct, though you may have enough image to crop top and bottom into a rectangle.
(Closest example I have posted right now)

I find that standing very still and trying to pivot while keeping the horizon at the same vertical position in the viewfinder and "significantly" overlapping the images works well enough in most situations. This would probably be a good thing to practice before you go. :-)
(Nine frames, handheld, approx. 270mm lens)

I use the demo (free) version of AutoStitch (Windows only), pretty much with the default settings; it stitches both horizontally and vertically, so you can make two (or more?) passes with the camera and get more height -- just remember that the pictures then need to overlap in both directions. The underlying technology has also been used in some commercial programs which may be easier to use, but I've never checked them out myself. Personally, I prefer the 32-bit version over the 64-bit update, but your experience (and operating system) may vary ...
12/05/2017 04:03:23 PM · #37
Originally posted by mbrutus2009:

Are there any good tutorials on snowscape photography?

Your light meter operates on the assumption that the average of everything it's looking at, luminance wise, is the same as a Zone V, 18% grey card. Roughly the same grey as the darker alternating panels in this forum. So if you point your camera at a white wall and make the recommended exposure, shooting JPG, you'll get a gray wall. Point it at a black wall, you'll get a gray wall. That's what "Exposure Compensation" dials are for; so you can dial in a custom bias that represents the condition in which you are shooting. Shooting skiers on a snowy trail in sunlight, that'd be like +2 compensation. Mountains, meadows, and sky, snowy conditions, maybe +1.5 or even +1. Study your histograms carefully, and ask yourself "How much detail do I actually NEED from this snowfield?" Also worth noting, the desired compensation will change depending on lighting conditions: if you are shooting on an overcast day, trying to make the snow pure white wouldn't be natural. Finally, remember that shadow areas, nearly always, are heavily into blue, because they tend to be lit by reflected sky light. THis is doubly so in snow scenes because the snow's a fiercely good reflector-of-sky-light. What I do is use auto WB, shoot RAW, and adjust in post. If you are shooting JPG on any of your devices, set white balance for "cloudy", that will warm things up a bit.
12/05/2017 04:18:26 PM · #38
Originally posted by Bear_Music:

If you are shooting JPG on any of your devices, set white balance for "cloudy", that will warm things up a bit.

Couldn't you also use Custom WB and key it to the snow itself (if shooting mostly snow)?
12/05/2017 04:20:51 PM · #39
Originally posted by GeneralE:

Couldn't you also use Custom WB and key it to the snow itself (if shooting mostly snow)?


Assuming that there is a snowfall before I get there, then yes most likely I could do this and put it as a preset to go to in the camera.. That's a good idea.
12/05/2017 04:28:50 PM · #40
Originally posted by mbrutus2009:

Originally posted by GeneralE:

Couldn't you also use Custom WB and key it to the snow itself (if shooting mostly snow)?

Assuming that there is a snowfall before I get there, then yes most likely I could do this and put it as a preset to go to in the camera.. That's a good idea.

That doesn't really work, because the snow is being lit by direct sunlight, except when it's in the shadows, so the shadows are where it gets blue from reflected sky light. The snow-in-the-light will be bright enough that WB is less critical, it's the snow-in-the-shadows you are concerned with. But if you SET your WB to the shadow snow, then it's gonna take out too much blue and the skies will look very wrong. Cloudy WB always worked for me as a compromise.

And, of course, in the film days, we used a UV filter at altitude (which is usually where we were shooting snow.)
12/05/2017 04:32:41 PM · #41
Originally posted by Bear_Music:

And, of course, in the film days, we used a UV filter at altitude (which is usually where we were shooting snow.)

I think a lot of folks still keep a UV filter on their lens (for "protection") ... are you saying the effect is similar to setting the WB to "cloudy"?
12/06/2017 10:29:16 AM · #42
I've actually taken off all my UV filters. Mainly for the fact that I have felt like I get a better quality image without it because it's always so dirty and I'm constantly cleaning it. I'm very careful with my equipment so I personally take the risk of lack of protection. That said I didn't know it did anything other than just protect the lens from any harm.

Interesting. I'll have to look into this before I go and hope I didn't throw away all the UV filters I had. Lol.
12/07/2017 12:07:35 PM · #43
Not sure if I will see them but the northern lights might show up. Anything I need to be aware of shooting them? Other than bundle up real good cause it'll be cold... Lol.
12/11/2017 01:48:41 PM · #44
Originally posted by LanndonKane:


Flight in - Friday October 20th

Arrive 4:15am.

Day 1 - Saturday October 21st

Pick up rental car when we arrive? Sat morning.



Did you pick up the rental right when you got there? We seem to have problems finding a place that has a pick up option for before 9:00am.
12/11/2017 07:24:05 PM · #45
Originally posted by mbrutus2009:

Originally posted by LanndonKane:


Flight in - Friday October 20th

Arrive 4:15am.

Day 1 - Saturday October 21st

Pick up rental car when we arrive? Sat morning.



Did you pick up the rental right when you got there? We seem to have problems finding a place that has a pick up option for before 9:00am.


We rented our car from a WOW air offer. The car provider was SIXT, and it’s right at the airport. They were open 6am and we picked up the car right then.
12/11/2017 07:49:58 PM · #46
Please, do me a huge favour and do a documentary style shoot for your trip. Photograph all those little things that make someone feel like they are with you on the trip.
The tickets, the departure board at the airport etc etc Shoot everything special and things not so special.
Shoot wide, medium and close up of things and then make a spark page for us to view (and all your friends and family) so we can come and on the trip with you.

Instead of posting mine which I have done in other posts follow the link to this one by Julianne Kost which will give you inspiration.

Julianne Kost - The Great Ocean Road and Kangaroo Island

spark.adobe.com
12/12/2017 02:51:26 PM · #47
Originally posted by RamblinR:

Please, do me a huge favour and do a documentary style shoot for your trip. Photograph all those little things that make someone feel like they are with you on the trip.


I have already planned on putting together both an album as well as a video that captures my trip. My girlfriend is starting to get into this idea too as she keeps watching video blogs of Iceland trips taken by people already. She sent a text to me today asking to go to Best Buy to get a cheap point and shoot to get videos of the entire trip.

So between my photography and her videos we will be sharing PLENTY with everyone! :)
01/05/2018 02:10:47 PM · #48
So the amount of planning going on with this is completely insane!

We have decided that it makes the most sense to rent a camper-van. It makes the most sense in that, there wouldn't technically be an "end point" required by hotel bookings. We could just drive to the nearest campsite and pick a spot.

We had originally started with the idea of driving around the entire island on Ring road but ended up not wanting to do this so that we could spend more time in the south end of Iceland. This way we don't feel rushed.

We have multiple documents with pages and pages of info about the areas we want to explore.

Our biggest issue that we have come across has been places that are open all year for camper-vans that at least have a bathroom. This seems to be quite difficult being that we're going in March which is technically winter time still.

Anyone who can google better than I can want to take a crack at finding a list of camp grounds that are open all year (AND confirmed, have bathrooms). It would be great if we could find some that are REALLY cheap. Cost is starting to rise more and more. Lol.
01/22/2018 10:36:14 AM · #49
How much storage do I need?

I'll be there for 5 full days.

I don't normally shoot RAW as I never really print or anything but obviously I will be shooting RAW the entire time I'm there. My new camera has 45.7 megapixels. Which means the files are massive. I also want to shoot some video on my camera for a video or two or maybe more if I get enough footage.

My current storage include one 64gb SD card and two 32gb SD card.

I am about to purchase a bunch of storage but don't want to spend more than I actually need.

That said I don't want to get out there and eat up all my memory on day 3...

Thoughts?

And anyone know where I can get a deal?
01/22/2018 05:44:29 PM · #50
Originally posted by mbrutus2009:

How much storage do I need?

I'll be there for 5 full days.

I don't normally shoot RAW as I never really print or anything but obviously I will be shooting RAW the entire time I'm there. My new camera has 45.7 megapixels. Which means the files are massive. I also want to shoot some video on my camera for a video or two or maybe more if I get enough footage.

I'm assuming you're taking a laptop. Dump the files daily into it. Then you don't have to buy a bunch of expensive cards.

When I got my D810, I was amazed at how much space the files took up.

That's how I deal on vacation......dump 'em into the laptop.
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