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03/03/2011 09:51:45 AM · #26 |
Both of these were taken with a modified Canon Rebel Xti and then converted to B&W. This is at Mission San Luis Rey in the cemetery located in Vista, Ca.
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03/03/2011 10:38:41 AM · #27 |
I have been using a converted Canon Rebel xT (bought on eBay for @$300 1 1/2 years ago). I LOVE using it. I shoot with a friend who also uses a converted Canon. We both find we need to bracket bracket bracket, often way to the minus side and constantly change the AV depending on what the histogram shows. But infrared cameras are great because the best time for infrared photography is midday - the worst time for regular cameras. And it is so experimental. With digital imaging and computer adjustments to saturation, red channel and blue channel, you can really get unusual results, depending on how you play with the colors. You can do this in Photoshop or Lightroom. I also find that Silver Efex enhances the contrast a lot. I keep a polarizing lens on, but others just use a UV.
I process many photos in BW or sepia, but am playing with selenium and multi-colors.
Here's a web site with some guidance for color:
//www.pibweb.com/ross/IR5.htm
Here are some other excellent web sites if you are a newbie:
//www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/infrared%20dslr.shtml
//www.wrotniak.net/photo/infrared/
I process many photos in BW or sepia, but am playing with selenium and multi-colors. You can look at some of my images at:
//lynnemassphotography.smugmug.com/Other/Lynnes-Fine-Art-Photography/15969555_6bvSL
Message edited by author 2011-03-03 11:02:40. |
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03/03/2011 10:44:31 AM · #28 |
Originally posted by kirbic:
IR is a lovely area of photography... the predominance of DSLRs has somewhat stifled it temporarily, because nearly all off-the-shelf DSLRs have very strong IR blocking filters over the sensors. This means very long exposures for IR, or modifying the camera. Lots of folks are now taking older cameras and modifying for IR, with great results. There are several companies that will do conversions.
It's a shame that manufacturers don't offer IR versions of some models. Canon did once with the 20Da, but that was available for only a short time, and you hardly ever see them on the used market. |
The Sigma SD model DSLR's are the exception to this. They are IR convertible (and back again) by removal of an easy-to-access filter. Sigma even uses this in their marketing, so further, you don't risk voiding your warranty.
//www.popphoto.com/Features/Camera-Hack-Capture-Invisible-Light-with-Your-Sigma-SD14 |
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03/03/2011 11:21:40 AM · #29 |
Originally posted by bvy:
Originally posted by kirbic:
IR is a lovely area of photography... the predominance of DSLRs has somewhat stifled it temporarily, because nearly all off-the-shelf DSLRs have very strong IR blocking filters over the sensors. This means very long exposures for IR, or modifying the camera. Lots of folks are now taking older cameras and modifying for IR, with great results. There are several companies that will do conversions.
It's a shame that manufacturers don't offer IR versions of some models. Canon did once with the 20Da, but that was available for only a short time, and you hardly ever see them on the used market. |
The Sigma SD model DSLR's are the exception to this. They are IR convertible (and back again) by removal of an easy-to-access filter. Sigma even uses this in their marketing, so further, you don't risk voiding your warranty.
//www.popphoto.com/Features/Camera-Hack-Capture-Invisible-Light-with-Your-Sigma-SD14 |
With the Sigma, removing the filter allows for Visible + UV photography. In order to do IR, you still need to block the visible and will need a filter over the lens, which makes focusing and composing awkward at best.
The conversion process replaces the IR blocking filter with an IR pass filter directly over the sensor, so, the AF system functions normally and the viewfinder image is clear. |
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03/03/2011 11:26:39 AM · #30 |
I've seen LifePixel recommended, are there any other companies that anyone else would recommend?
I'm leary of buying through Ebay, since I have no idea who did the mod, and often there is little/no information on the kind of mod performed. |
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03/03/2011 11:38:23 AM · #31 |
Originally posted by gcoulson:
I've seen LifePixel recommended, are there any other companies that anyone else would recommend?
I'm leary of buying through Ebay, since I have no idea who did the mod, and often there is little/no information on the kind of mod performed. |
I can't say anything about the other companies, I'll toss in another vote for LifePixel, I had my 10D done by them. I'm 100% satisfied. |
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03/03/2011 11:40:39 AM · #32 |
Originally posted by Spork99:
Originally posted by gcoulson:
I've seen LifePixel recommended, are there any other companies that anyone else would recommend?
I'm leary of buying through Ebay, since I have no idea who did the mod, and often there is little/no information on the kind of mod performed. |
I can't say anything about the other companies, I'll toss in another vote for LifePixel, I had my 10D done by them. I'm 100% satisfied. |
Right now they have a special going for $250. Now, if only I can find a cheapie camera on Ebay or Craigslist!
PS....is there any significant different between a DSLR or a compact aside from the fact that they dont have interchangeable lenses? |
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03/03/2011 11:41:25 AM · #33 |
Another excellent company is:
//www.maxmax.com/ |
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03/03/2011 11:41:44 AM · #34 |
| If your ok with the prices...LP would be ok...i had mine locally done for $200...great deal and he has his own cleanroom so even better. |
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03/03/2011 01:04:36 PM · #35 |
SO right now, I'm looking at two options:
Option 1: $70.
Hoya R72 IR filter for my Canon T2I DSLR. Not ideal bearing in mind the strong IR pass filter the Canon has, so may require longer exposure times. However, since my main interest with this is landscape photography and not people photography, this is not a deal-breaker.
Option 2: $200/$250/$270
But a P&S camera off of Ebay that has had the IR filter installed.
Samsung SL50 19.2MP
Panasonic Lumic DMC 14.1MP
Fujifilm S5200 5MP
The third option of modding my T2i is not going to happen since it's my only camera.
Wonder if anyone has any comments?
Message edited by author 2011-03-03 13:04:47. |
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03/03/2011 01:34:59 PM · #36 |
| Keep in mind that adding a R72 filter to your camera (scrw on filter) has negatives. Shutter speed is greatly compromised. Something that i can shoot at 1/200 with a modified camera at F8, your going to need to probably shoot at around 1/20 or less...also it's awfully tough to compose your shot with a black piece of glass attached. You will probably have to compose without the filter, and then put on the filter and take the shot.... a lot of patience is definitely needed...just some things to think about... |
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03/03/2011 01:47:09 PM · #37 |
Originally posted by wizardry:
Keep in mind that adding a R72 filter to your camera (scrw on filter) has negatives. Shutter speed is greatly compromised. Something that i can shoot at 1/200 with a modified camera at F8, your going to need to probably shoot at around 1/20 or less...also it's awfully tough to compose your shot with a black piece of glass attached. You will probably have to compose without the filter, and then put on the filter and take the shot.... a lot of patience is definitely needed...just some things to think about... |
Thanks for the insight, Dwayne. But as mentioned above, I don't mind longer exposures as I'm not trying to capture moving people/objects...just landscape. I have read about the need for composing before putting on the filter, which isn't any different one would do with a large stop ND filter, so I'm not put off by that.
I understand having a modded camera is the way to go, but with one camera at the moment, I don't have too many options. |
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03/03/2011 02:50:50 PM · #38 |
Originally posted by wizardry:
Keep in mind that adding a R72 filter to your camera (scrw on filter) has negatives. Shutter speed is greatly compromised. Something that i can shoot at 1/200 with a modified camera at F8, your going to need to probably shoot at around 1/20 or less...also it's awfully tough to compose your shot with a black piece of glass attached. You will probably have to compose without the filter, and then put on the filter and take the shot.... a lot of patience is definitely needed...just some things to think about... |
It's been a while since I shot IR with an R72 on my G5, but, I seem to remember that with the filter over the lens, the camera brightened the LCD image to make the scene visible. having the filter over the lens only affects composition if you're looking through the lens, as with a DSLR, and not if you use Live View or the equivalent.
My recommendation is to start with an R72 over the lens and go from there.
Message edited by author 2011-03-03 14:52:27. |
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03/03/2011 03:02:38 PM · #39 |
Originally posted by Spork99:
Originally posted by wizardry:
Keep in mind that adding a R72 filter to your camera (scrw on filter) has negatives. Shutter speed is greatly compromised. Something that i can shoot at 1/200 with a modified camera at F8, your going to need to probably shoot at around 1/20 or less...also it's awfully tough to compose your shot with a black piece of glass attached. You will probably have to compose without the filter, and then put on the filter and take the shot.... a lot of patience is definitely needed...just some things to think about... |
It's been a while since I shot IR with an R72 on my G5, but, I seem to remember that with the filter over the lens, the camera brightened the LCD image to make the scene visible. having the filter over the lens only affects composition if you're looking through the lens, as with a DSLR, and not if you use Live View or the equivalent.
My recommendation is to start with an R72 over the lens and go from there. |
Dan, are you saying that while the viewfinder may be blacked out in a DLSR, the LCD Live view would still work? |
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03/03/2011 04:45:28 PM · #40 |
Originally posted by gcoulson:
Originally posted by Spork99:
Originally posted by wizardry:
Keep in mind that adding a R72 filter to your camera (scrw on filter) has negatives. Shutter speed is greatly compromised. Something that i can shoot at 1/200 with a modified camera at F8, your going to need to probably shoot at around 1/20 or less...also it's awfully tough to compose your shot with a black piece of glass attached. You will probably have to compose without the filter, and then put on the filter and take the shot.... a lot of patience is definitely needed...just some things to think about... |
It's been a while since I shot IR with an R72 on my G5, but, I seem to remember that with the filter over the lens, the camera brightened the LCD image to make the scene visible. having the filter over the lens only affects composition if you're looking through the lens, as with a DSLR, and not if you use Live View or the equivalent.
My recommendation is to start with an R72 over the lens and go from there. |
Dan, are you saying that while the viewfinder may be blacked out in a DLSR, the LCD Live view would still work? |
I believe that it would. However, I no longer have my R72 filter since I got my 10D converted, so I can't try it.
I base this on my recollection of using my G5 with the R72 and using the LCD to compose. Essentially the camera would automatically increase the brightness of the LCD until the scene was visible. Perhaps someone with a DSLR with LiveView and an R72 filter can check it out and confirm or debunk my thoughts. |
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03/04/2011 03:03:51 PM · #41 |
I'll just toss out that I dabbled with IR on my un-modified Canon 400D, and it took ridiculously long exposure times to get shots. At mid-day, it was 20-30 second exposures.
That being said, it made for some really interesting shots. |
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03/04/2011 04:20:00 PM · #42 |
Originally posted by punk_kaos:
I'll just toss out that I dabbled with IR on my un-modified Canon 400D, and it took ridiculously long exposure times to get shots. At mid-day, it was 20-30 second exposures.
That being said, it made for some really interesting shots. |
What filter were you using? |
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03/04/2011 04:23:14 PM · #43 |
Originally posted by gcoulson:
Originally posted by punk_kaos:
I'll just toss out that I dabbled with IR on my un-modified Canon 400D, and it took ridiculously long exposure times to get shots. At mid-day, it was 20-30 second exposures.
That being said, it made for some really interesting shots. |
What filter were you using? |
It was a 720nm IR filter, I forget the brand but if you're interested I can find the brand when I get home where its at :) |
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03/04/2011 04:23:52 PM · #44 |
Originally posted by punk_kaos:
Originally posted by gcoulson:
Originally posted by punk_kaos:
I'll just toss out that I dabbled with IR on my un-modified Canon 400D, and it took ridiculously long exposure times to get shots. At mid-day, it was 20-30 second exposures.
That being said, it made for some really interesting shots. |
What filter were you using? |
It was a 720nm IR filter, I forget the brand but if you're interested I can find the brand when I get home where its at :) |
That would be good, thanks! |
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03/04/2011 04:59:13 PM · #45 |
Live view will try to work, even with a filter on, but remember that if the camera isn't modded there will be very little light getting to the sensor; so you won't likely see much. A lot like trying to use live view at night away from lights.
Another path, if 5 Mpixels are good enough, is the Sony F717. In night mode, the shutter drops down to about 1/30 sec, but you can take hand held images in daylight. They can be had on eBay for well less than $100.
LifePixel isn't the only one who converts cameras, but I believe they are the biggest in the US. They are also excellent to deal with. I purchased my converted 30D off eBay. I had some questions, and they were very helpful. Treated me as if I had purchased it from them directly. I couldn't ask for much more. |
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03/04/2011 07:21:56 PM · #46 |
Originally posted by gcoulson:
Originally posted by punk_kaos:
Originally posted by gcoulson:
Originally posted by punk_kaos:
I'll just toss out that I dabbled with IR on my un-modified Canon 400D, and it took ridiculously long exposure times to get shots. At mid-day, it was 20-30 second exposures.
That being said, it made for some really interesting shots. |
What filter were you using? |
It was a 720nm IR filter, I forget the brand but if you're interested I can find the brand when I get home where its at :) |
That would be good, thanks! |
Ok, its a Massa 72mm 720nm infrared filter. I grabbed it off eBay to play around with infrared but wasn't real happy with the long exposure time. |
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05/24/2011 07:57:21 PM · #47 |
Hi
I'm using an unmoded Nikon D70s with a 52mm 720nm (red)IR and UV filter and works a charm.. no need for long exposures, the photos im producing have a RED hue unprocessed,the Nikon D70s is renown for it high powered flash so it works great indoors and outdoors even on auto mode, ofcorse manual mode is tweakable to suit the individual, i also have a canon 1000D with a R72 filter however best IR results occure in BULB mode, for best results
Message edited by author 2011-05-24 19:58:17. |
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05/24/2011 10:13:52 PM · #48 |
Been playing Infrared photography for a while, here I share my newbie knowledge:-
R72 filter - only some lens work without issue of center bright spot. Incompatible lens will produce a white spot at central of every shot.
R72 give more stops than ND400, probably more than 12 stops.
framing the composition than screw in the filter or using ISO3200 just to make few shots for composition.
WB setting should be lower than 2.5k kevin by preset with dark red or orange background.
R72 filter work best with P&S.
Camera in-body IR - Exposure setting not difference much from normal camera.
Any shot against sun will be a stripe of strong flare.
R72 filter:
1. How the center white spot look like: //farm6.static.flickr.com/5186/5756429747_3a689d23cf.jpg
2. Motion blur cannot be avoided: //farm4.static.flickr.com/3272/5756407251_7eeca2a73c.jpg
Camera body IR:
1. How the flare look like: //farm4.static.flickr.com/3464/5756406585_2806945506.jpg
2. Channel Color swap from red to blue: //farm4.static.flickr.com/3157/5756407049_32b4172f7f.jpg
3. A shot cannot be archive by R72 filter: //farm4.static.flickr.com/3449/5756950534_a67fc0f127_z.jpg
Message edited by author 2011-05-25 01:02:02. |
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05/24/2011 10:26:31 PM · #49 |
Originally posted by alexlky:
Been playing Infrared photography for a while, here I share my newbie knowledge:-
R72 filter - Not all lens suitable. There will be a white spot at central of every shot.
R72 give more stops than ND400, probably more than 12 stops.
framing the composition than screw in the filter or using ISO3200 just to make few shots for composition.
WB setting should be lower than 2.5k kevin by preset with dark red or orange background.
R72 filter work best with P&S.
Camera in-body IR - Exposure setting not difference much from normal camera.
Any shot against sun will be a stripe of strong flare.
R72 filter:
1. How the center white spot look like: //farm6.static.flickr.com/5186/5756429747_3a689d23cf.jpg
2. Motion blur cannot be avoided: //farm4.static.flickr.com/3272/5756407251_7eeca2a73c.jpg
Camera body IR:
1. How the flare look like: //farm4.static.flickr.com/3464/5756406585_2806945506.jpg
2. Channel Color swap from red to blue: //farm4.static.flickr.com/3157/5756407049_32b4172f7f.jpg
3. A shot cannot be archive by R72 filter: //farm4.static.flickr.com/3449/5756950534_a67fc0f127_z.jpg |
I use the R72 filter, and it only produces the bright center spot on SOME lenses..not all. It can be adjusted in post. Personally, I haven't had issues with the bright center though.
Dave |
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05/25/2011 12:46:35 AM · #50 |
Originally posted by DCNUTTER:
Originally posted by alexlky:
Been playing Infrared photography for a while, here I share my newbie knowledge:-
R72 filter - Not all lens suitable. There will be a white spot at central of every shot.
R72 give more stops than ND400, probably more than 12 stops.
framing the composition than screw in the filter or using ISO3200 just to make few shots for composition.
WB setting should be lower than 2.5k kevin by preset with dark red or orange background.
R72 filter work best with P&S.
Camera in-body IR - Exposure setting not difference much from normal camera.
Any shot against sun will be a stripe of strong flare.
R72 filter:
1. How the center white spot look like: //farm6.static.flickr.com/5186/5756429747_3a689d23cf.jpg
2. Motion blur cannot be avoided: //farm4.static.flickr.com/3272/5756407251_7eeca2a73c.jpg
Camera body IR:
1. How the flare look like: //farm4.static.flickr.com/3464/5756406585_2806945506.jpg
2. Channel Color swap from red to blue: //farm4.static.flickr.com/3157/5756407049_32b4172f7f.jpg
3. A shot cannot be archive by R72 filter: //farm4.static.flickr.com/3449/5756950534_a67fc0f127_z.jpg |
I use the R72 filter, and it only produces the bright center spot on SOME lenses..not all. It can be adjusted in post. Personally, I haven\'t had issues with the bright center though.
Dave |
Thanks for the correction, my dear friend. Dave, do think it's good idea if members could list down suitable lenses for R72 filter?
My playing with IR filter tells bigger aperture produce less bright center spot but for smaller aperture long shutter (above 3 mins), the center bright spot details almost gone.
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