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08/07/2012 01:04:04 PM · #1
I went back to the Oregon Coast to shoot a feature called Thor's Well. I shot a 2-frame panorama and the final image will have a 3:1 aspect ratio (about 16x48). I'm curious what order people would do things in when processing. Here is what will need to be done:

Manage in RAW: I was pushing the exposure due to the bright sunlight. I will need to dial back and try to reign in highlights. there will also be some CA at the edges. Color balance won't be off by too much, but you can always tweak.

Combine two images into one panorama: I have been using CS5 for this. The computer will need to fudge because the images are obviously not from the same wave action. If I combine from the RAW images, does the program take the sidecar info (ie. manual adjustments) into consideration?

Noise reduction: probably not a bit deal, but could go through a cycle. I shot at ISO 50.

Nik HDR pro 2: Again, if I tonemap off the RAW images, does it take the sidecar info into account? Would you do this before or after creating the panorama? The panorama becomes a jpg or tiff, am I losing something by doing this?

I guess the most important question is to know if the manual adjustments in the RAW converter are utilized by the programs when they either tonemap or make a panorama.
08/07/2012 01:16:26 PM · #2
What I would do is process them exactly the same in RAW conversion, and save as 16-bit TIFF. Then do the stitching and any other tweaking and save as a PSD. Flatten and save a copyas a TIFF. Finally, do any additional processing such as tonemapping on the TIFF. At this point you may find that you have color mismatches that were not apparent. If so, you'll need to go back to the PSD and tweak to correct.

08/07/2012 01:17:14 PM · #3
Originally posted by DrAchoo:


I guess the most important question is to know if the manual adjustments in the RAW converter are utilized by the programs when they either tonemap or make a panorama.


Processing software can't work on RAW directly (except RAW converters, obviously, for example ACR or Lightroom). When you stitch images together or tonemap them, the first thing the program will do is convert the RAW in a standard image (usually 16 bits TIFF for highest quality) then start working on them.

In your case, I would recommend to:
1) Process your RAWs yourself. When done, export them in 16 bits TIFFs or PSDs.
2) Import those in your stitching program and create your panorama. Stitching is usually done at the beginning of the processing, so that overlapping parts are still looking similar (which could become false after different processing on the different photos, making the stitching very difficult). Again export in some sort of 16 bits format files (TIFF or PSD)
3) Tonemap
08/07/2012 01:18:36 PM · #4
I would combine the two as soon as possible, otherwise any adjustments just won't match well between the two.

I think CS5 will merge RAW files, if not convert them to 32 bit tiff's. They will be much larger than the RAW's but at that bit depth you shouldn't lose anything.

ETA: Yea, what they said, looks like I'm late to the party again :)

Message edited by author 2012-08-07 13:20:20.
08/07/2012 08:19:04 PM · #5
HDR Efex 2.0 will process sidecar information.

I recently had a similar workflow and I managed in ACR first. (I shot HDR panoramas so I *had* to merge those first.)

I took the 16 bit psd files and then did the pano stitching and it worked great.

I made sure to keep my ACR adjustments very similar or identical, which was easy given that I shot with the same settings.
08/07/2012 08:32:28 PM · #6
Originally posted by DrAchoo:

I shot at ISO 50.


How do you get ISO 50 from a 5D2?

R.
08/07/2012 08:35:46 PM · #7
Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Originally posted by DrAchoo:

I shot at ISO 50.


How do you get ISO 50 from a 5D2?

R.


Go into the expanded iso range and when you scroll down past 100 it shows up as L. According to LR that is iso 50. Haven't really noticed a difference so I rarely use it but nice to have the option.
08/07/2012 11:33:21 PM · #8
Originally posted by MinsoPhoto:

Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Originally posted by DrAchoo:

I shot at ISO 50.


How do you get ISO 50 from a 5D2?

R.


Go into the expanded iso range and when you scroll down past 100 it shows up as L. According to LR that is iso 50. Haven't really noticed a difference so I rarely use it but nice to have the option.


I'll be danged...

R.
08/07/2012 11:52:59 PM · #9
Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Originally posted by MinsoPhoto:

Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Originally posted by DrAchoo:

I shot at ISO 50.


How do you get ISO 50 from a 5D2?

R.


Go into the expanded iso range and when you scroll down past 100 it shows up as L. According to LR that is iso 50. Haven't really noticed a difference so I rarely use it but nice to have the option.


I'll be danged...

R.


You actually lose a bit of image quality by doing this, one reason why I bought my D3x was so I could have native ISO 100, because taking my D3s down to 100 which is L, I was losing contrast and some image quality.

Matt
08/08/2012 01:07:25 AM · #10
Originally posted by MattO:

Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Originally posted by MinsoPhoto:

Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Originally posted by DrAchoo:

I shot at ISO 50.


How do you get ISO 50 from a 5D2?

R.


Go into the expanded iso range and when you scroll down past 100 it shows up as L. According to LR that is iso 50. Haven't really noticed a difference so I rarely use it but nice to have the option.


I'll be danged...

R.


You actually lose a bit of image quality by doing this, one reason why I bought my D3x was so I could have native ISO 100, because taking my D3s down to 100 which is L, I was losing contrast and some image quality.

Matt


Having done the research here, the exact problem is that you lose one stop of highlights.... Noise is excellent, but you do lose a stop of DR.
08/08/2012 02:03:21 AM · #11
I was doing it to gain a stop in slowing down the water not out of any noise quality issue. It was 4:00 in the afternoon with few clouds and I was already getting highlight blinkies at 0.5" f/22 ISO 50 with 4-stops of ND filters. I missed my 9-stop filter (which I left the last time I shot at this location).

Message edited by author 2012-08-08 02:03:43.
08/09/2012 12:23:14 AM · #12
Originally posted by Cory:

Originally posted by MattO:

Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Originally posted by MinsoPhoto:

Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Originally posted by DrAchoo:

I shot at ISO 50.


How do you get ISO 50 from a 5D2?

R.


Go into the expanded iso range and when you scroll down past 100 it shows up as L. According to LR that is iso 50. Haven't really noticed a difference so I rarely use it but nice to have the option.


I'll be danged...

R.


You actually lose a bit of image quality by doing this, one reason why I bought my D3x was so I could have native ISO 100, because taking my D3s down to 100 which is L, I was losing contrast and some image quality.

Matt


Having done the research here, the exact problem is that you lose one stop of highlights.... Noise is excellent, but you do lose a stop of DR.


I didn't say anything about noise. I said Image quality. There is a lot more to image quality then noise.

Matt
08/09/2012 11:54:56 AM · #13
I worked the image up again last night and sent it off to the printer. I should have posted a copy here. I'll do that tonight. It worked nicely doing it in the order mentioned above. I'm excited to see it at 16x48" and get it in the frame.
08/09/2012 08:20:07 PM · #14
Here's a link to a larger version of the shot (and a small thumb). Thanks for the help! I get it from the printer tomorrow.



Thor's Well

08/09/2012 09:16:25 PM · #15
Your shot turned out sweet Jason! Maybe this is what you ordered, but it would look great printed glossy on aluminum and floated.

I use ISO 50 on my 5DII sometimes too in order to slow down the shutter. I haven't observed any reason to use it otherwise as the images are no less and maybe slightly noisier as a result, and now that others have mentioned it; the highlights seem to maybe blow a little easier too.
08/09/2012 09:20:13 PM · #16
Great shot. That will look amazing printed.
08/09/2012 09:29:03 PM · #17
Originally posted by Brent_S:

Your shot turned out sweet Jason! Maybe this is what you ordered, but it would look great printed glossy on aluminum and floated.

I use ISO 50 on my 5DII sometimes too in order to slow down the shutter. I haven't observed any reason to use it otherwise as the images are no less and maybe slightly noisier as a result, and now that others have mentioned it; the highlights seem to maybe blow a little easier too.


I am printing and putting it in another reclaimed wood frame. I'll shoot a pic when it's done hopefully tomorrow.
08/09/2012 11:16:02 PM · #18
Wow! What an image!!!
08/09/2012 11:25:02 PM · #19
Originally posted by MattO:

Originally posted by Cory:



Having done the research here, the exact problem is that you lose one stop of highlights.... Noise is excellent, but you do lose a stop of DR.


I didn't say anything about noise. I said Image quality. There is a lot more to image quality then noise.

Matt


Wasn't intending that to be directed at you, and I agree 100%. :)
08/09/2012 11:25:24 PM · #20
Originally posted by DrAchoo:

Here's a link to a larger version of the shot (and a small thumb). Thanks for the help! I get it from the printer tomorrow.



Thor's Well


I think I hate you just a little... ;) Very nice!

Message edited by author 2012-08-09 23:25:33.
08/09/2012 11:27:33 PM · #21
gorgeous image. wow.
08/09/2012 11:29:21 PM · #22
Do you know that from your link someone can "save" your photo from a direct link at the top? That doesn't seem too cool of smugmug to allow that. Especially since it's not watermarked and a decent size. Edit to add it's ORIGINAL size that it lets you save. I'd remove your link and find a way to stop that.

Matt

Message edited by author 2012-08-09 23:32:22.
08/10/2012 03:31:02 AM · #23
I'm new to this topic. Kindly cooperate!
08/10/2012 03:44:27 AM · #24
Originally posted by samsmith:

I'm new to this topic. Kindly cooperate!


Is resistance futile? ;)

Welcome to DPC samsmith, what sort of photography are you into?
08/10/2012 03:45:42 AM · #25
Originally posted by MattO:

Do you know that from your link someone can "save" your photo from a direct link at the top? That doesn't seem too cool of smugmug to allow that. Especially since it's not watermarked and a decent size. Edit to add it's ORIGINAL size that it lets you save. I'd remove your link and find a way to stop that.

Matt


Looks like he fixed it.
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