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DPChallenge Forums >> Hardware and Software >> Looking at a lens - Advice Please
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08/27/2014 11:54:15 AM · #1
Amazon

But it says it won't work with my camera?? Is this for a Full Frame camera only?

What are the differences between that one and this

which one is the newer version? Am I missing anymore in this Prime Lens?
08/27/2014 12:04:37 PM · #2
One significant difference is that the G lens (your second link) lacks an aperture control ring. I can't imagine why the D lens (first link) would not work with our camera, but since there are some differences in compatibility based on whether the lens has an internal focus motor I will defer to those more intimately familiar with Nikon hardware.
08/27/2014 12:08:48 PM · #3
the D is the older lens, where the G series is a newer line of lenses (based on my research recently into nikon lenses). at 60mm/2.8 they should perform similarly in terms of overall pictures, but there will be advantages/disadvantages to the older glass. Generally people find that the heavier/older lenses sometimes have less chance of internal parts breaking down since they are not as "cheaply" built, but i can't say for certain from personal experience on this (just what i've read from others), and it could be 100% untrue with these particular lenses.

These lenses will work with both of your cameras, don't worry that amazon hasn't listed every single compatable camera on their site. if you're unsure, check out [url=www.kenrockwell.com]kenrockwell.com [/url]- he's been a great source of comparative information when i was looking at lenses.
08/27/2014 12:11:44 PM · #4
I know that some of the crop sensor lens will not work on the full frame camera but I wasn't aware (and this isn't saying much at all) that the full frame lens wouldn't work on the crop sensor ones..

Thanks I never have understood the lettering on the lens and which is newer/older...it's totally confusing to me (again...no new news here)
08/27/2014 12:15:00 PM · #5
Here's Nikon's compatability chart for the D7000: you should be fine.

Regarding "G" lenses (which this is nOT), be aware they are a step BACKWARD because they have removed the aperture ring on the lens to save costs.
08/27/2014 12:25:48 PM · #6
step back in some ways, cheaper material (plastic vs metal in many cases), no aperature ring, but in some have added the motor for focusing into the lens instead of relying on the camera body.
as quoted by ken rockwell comparing the 35mm difference between the g and d series:
Originally posted by "ken rockwell":


"The biggest difference between this 35/2 AF-D and the newest 35/1.8G is that you have to move a switch on your camera to swap between Auto and Manual focus modes, while with the newest f/1.8 G FX lens all you have to do is move the focus ring."

for his comparison between the 60g/d:

Originally posted by "ken rockwell":


This AF-S (g) lens works perfectly with every Nikon DX and FX digital SLR. It also works perfectly with any but the very cheapest or oldest Nikon AF film cameras.

Because its gelded ("G," or has had the aperture ring removed to save cost) it's 99% useless with manual focus cameras. For manual focus cameras, the much less expensive 60mm f/2.8 AF-D or 55mm f/2.8 AI-s work much better.

See Nikon Lens Compatibility for details with your camera. Read down the "AF-S" column for this lens.



Message edited by author 2014-08-27 12:30:26.
08/27/2014 01:56:02 PM · #7
For the price difference I'll go with the 60mm G lens

I'll select it because it has nanocoating, I think it is the least expensive Nikon lens available with that treatment
why does it matters? it improves contrast

Other differences is where is the AF motor, or the aperture ring, for using it on the 7000 it is irrelevant.

but better get a comment from someone that may have used the lenses, I have not used either one.

Message edited by author 2014-08-27 14:15:28.
08/27/2014 02:57:17 PM · #8
As others said, the "G" is the newer version. The 60mm lens makes for a pleasing portrait lens with the DX format providing an angle of view similar to a 90mm equivalent lens. I considered this very lens, but opted for the 105mm just to give a little more working distance for macro photography. That's the biggest complaint I've heard about the 60mm. I don't think you would be disappointed with either you are looking at, but you might consider the working distance versus the 105mm.
08/27/2014 06:47:50 PM · #9
It's hard to believe you are trying to improve on this, The Ja-9 DPC page.

The "S" version has better optics and you can manually override the focus if you want without switching anything.

The "G" version will work just fine with your 7000 but you have to switch AF off if you want to manually focus. With the "G" lenses on your camera, you can either select the aperture on the lens, or set the ring at 22 and use the thumb wheel on the camera to set it.

You like to shoot close, so focus is mostly a matter of moving the camera in or out a couple of tenths of an inch to get the exact area you want in focus, so AF may not meet your needs in the way that you envision.
08/27/2014 07:42:43 PM · #10
Originally posted by MelonMusketeer:

It's hard to believe you are trying to improve on this, The Ja-9 DPC page.

The "S" version has better optics and you can manually override the focus if you want without switching anything.

The "G" version will work just fine with your 7000 but you have to switch AF off if you want to manually focus. With the "G" lenses on your camera, you can either select the aperture on the lens, or set the ring at 22 and use the thumb wheel on the camera to set it.

You like to shoot close, so focus is mostly a matter of moving the camera in or out a couple of tenths of an inch to get the exact area you want in focus, so AF may not meet your needs in the way that you envision.


yes, I do like to focus close!!! So a ratio of 1:1 is quite important but with my 50mm f/1.4 lens I had to use an extension tube (recently broke, now re-ordered) and the lens has a crack on the side of it...it's working again, this after my husband had "parts" all over the counter and looked up at me and said..."I don't know if I can get the this back together or not"...eeeeekkkk!!! Well, he did get it back together. So I don't know that I want to try to replace that lens (50mm) or go on up to the 60mm. I've often coveted Irene's photos and I know she uses the 60mm f/2.8...

And yes I own the Vivitar 55mm lens page...but I don't seem to have any competition in that lens now do I??? I will say it's a sweeeeeet, sweeeeet lens...razor sharp
08/28/2014 03:01:24 PM · #11
Originally posted by Ja-9:

yes, I do like to focus close!!! So a ratio of 1:1 is quite important ...


I agree with previously expressed opinion that you should take a look at the 100mm-class macro lenses as well. A little more working distance is a wonderful thing. At macro magnifications, there is no real difference in DoF due to focal length differences. The only real give-back with the longer focal length is the increased difficulty in holding steady.
08/29/2014 12:28:17 PM · #12
I own the older version. It's a sweet lens, especially on DX bodies. I still use it with my D800 to do copy work. The newer version is supposed to be one of the sharpest lenses around, but I doubt a mere mortal would ever really see the difference between the two.

If it were me, I'd be trying to find a good copy of the older one on the used market. They can be had on the used market for $200-250.
08/29/2014 02:29:59 PM · #13
ebay has a LOT for decent prices.
i was looking at the 60mm micro for myself about 4 weeks back, had to put it on the back-burner due to other requirements for that money, and i've since decided that i'm just going to keep saving up for the 105 / 2.8 in time.
08/30/2014 09:11:22 AM · #14
Thank you for all your input...

Additional question...

What would the difference be between made in USA/Japan?

08/30/2014 10:33:51 AM · #15
Ok, here are a couple more questions...

I'm looking at

50mm f/1.4D
60mm f/2.8D
105mm f/2.8

I'm replacing my broken 50mm f/1.4D, when I look on here at all 3 lenses. The 50/60mm is more the work that I want to do. Close macro 1:1 (have extension tubes) that has AF. A bonus would be to be able to do portrait work...but that's low on my list. I do have the Vivatar 55mm f/2.8 manual. Which is a sweet lens but what I want is one that is AF for those close 1:1 shots of flowers with bees flying around in them. It's a bitch to try to use my manual for those kind of shots. Obviously I like a SDF!!!

So given that info...what would you choose?
08/30/2014 11:17:52 AM · #16
Having owned all the lenses you might be interested in at one time or another...They're all pretty slow to autofocus at macro distances. There are no lenses that really autofocus well at macro distances. It's a hard problem to solve. The current version of the 60 and 105 are better than the others, and will at least focus quickly at non-macro distances.

If I were trying to chase bugs around the garden, I'd have a 105mm f/2.8G (the current model), a TC14E II or III, a flash bracket, and a flash. It's hard to get moving bugs sharp and well lit at true macro distances without flash. To get the Roz style pictures of fly eyeballs, you'll need to be up close and personal, and you'll need the teleconverter to get you there.

All of the lenses you're talking about will be good portrait lenses. The 105 has super good bokeh. I can't remember about the others.

There's also a 105mm AF-D. It's an older version, slower to focus, but just as sharp, but both much lighter and much less expensive than the current model. I had one and sold it when I got my current 105, and have regretted it ever since. I don't much like the size and weight of the current 105, but I can't argue with the image quality.

You might also consider a Tamron 90.
08/30/2014 02:40:15 PM · #17
So what about

Japanise glass

Vs

USA?
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