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08/29/2012 10:50:19 PM · #1
and there ya go...

The Moon
08/29/2012 11:04:49 PM · #2
Don't worry, I have brown locked up for this one.
08/29/2012 11:33:42 PM · #3
doh! (or yeah?)... its Expert Editing!
08/30/2012 12:00:39 AM · #4
As long as Isaac holds off I hope to be in this one!!
08/30/2012 01:47:15 AM · #5
I feel that this challenge is going to be more about editing than shooting.
08/30/2012 02:24:39 AM · #6
Originally posted by MelonMusketeer:

I feel that this challenge is going to be more about editing than shooting.


Hence, im out! My editing sucks:-)
08/30/2012 02:25:16 AM · #7
Originally posted by MelonMusketeer:

I feel that this challenge is going to be more about editing than shooting.

Thankfully true. One can only take seeing so many "real" moon photos.
08/30/2012 02:27:57 AM · #8
I might show my real moon for this one.
08/30/2012 02:29:05 AM · #9
Did you ever get the mighty boosch in the US? The moon in that was funny :)

Great bit of surreal comedy :)
08/30/2012 08:37:45 AM · #10
Originally posted by Giles_uk:

Did you ever get the mighty boosch in the US? The moon in that was funny :)

Great bit of surreal comedy :)


yes, but such a waste of cake frosting!
08/30/2012 09:10:39 AM · #11
Originally posted by Giles_uk:

Did you ever get the mighty boosch in the US? The moon in that was funny :)

Great bit of surreal comedy :)

Not you naan bread!

That line cracked me up.
08/30/2012 09:56:55 AM · #12
Good weather here. Checking the alignment and timing stats.

MOON & NIGHT PHOTO CALCULATOR

SUNRISE & SUNSET PHOTO CALCULATOR

The challenge for me is to photograph a real scene, as I don't intend to use the Expert Editing composite techniques. (Yes, I know my score will suffer because some voters will downgrade the natural look, in favor of the fantasy land stuff.)

The moon is a sun reflector. In the dark of the night, the moon dominates any scene because it is such a bright beacon. But, there are times (you can figure this out) when the landscape and the moon are somewhat equally illuminated. That's the kind of image I wish to capture. Ansel Adams could do it. I can try. And, I don't care about my score. This is a skill challenge to me... of using my camera and lenses and filters.
08/30/2012 10:45:22 AM · #13
Well I really wanted to shoot the "blue moon" but if we are lucky Issac will be dumping rain on us this weekend.. Please dump rain!!!
08/30/2012 10:57:49 AM · #14
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with Hahn. Your links have given me an idea... but I need to fine tune it.
08/30/2012 11:14:48 AM · #15
Originally posted by hahn23:

The moon is a sun reflector. In the dark of the night, the moon dominates any scene because it is such a bright beacon. But, there are times (you can figure this out) when the landscape and the moon are somewhat equally illuminated. That's the kind of image I wish to capture.

This might be a good time to use an HDR technique — merely "Advanced" and not "Expert" ... remember that just because you can use "Expert" techniques it doesn't mean you must ...
08/30/2012 11:25:19 AM · #16
Originally posted by hahn23:

Good weather here. Checking the alignment and timing stats.

MOON & NIGHT PHOTO CALCULATOR

SUNRISE & SUNSET PHOTO CALCULATOR

The challenge for me is to photograph a real scene, as I don't intend to use the Expert Editing composite techniques. (Yes, I know my score will suffer because some voters will downgrade the natural look, in favor of the fantasy land stuff.)

The moon is a sun reflector. In the dark of the night, the moon dominates any scene because it is such a bright beacon. But, there are times (you can figure this out) when the landscape and the moon are somewhat equally illuminated. That's the kind of image I wish to capture. Ansel Adams could do it. I can try. And, I don't care about my score. This is a skill challenge to me... of using my camera and lenses and filters.


Hey it can happen, and work well... I pulled a top ten with this one, and I went for advanced in an expert challenge.



Message edited by author 2012-08-30 11:25:41.
08/30/2012 12:28:08 PM · #17
Originally posted by GeneralE:

Originally posted by hahn23:

The moon is a sun reflector. In the dark of the night, the moon dominates any scene because it is such a bright beacon. But, there are times (you can figure this out) when the landscape and the moon are somewhat equally illuminated. That's the kind of image I wish to capture.

This might be a good time to use an HDR technique — merely "Advanced" and not "Expert" ... remember that just because you can use "Expert" techniques it doesn't mean you must ...

Very good suggestion! Thanks!

It will be a challenge to get it done right, though. If you use several exposures you need to shoot them quickly since the moon and earth are continually moving and it will be hard to match up the exposures if you linger more than a split second. In real time, we are oblivious to the speed at which the moon races across the sky. It is significant motion at 1.022 km/s (3679.2 km/hr.).... plus the earth is rotating in a pretty snappy manner (varies by latitude).

The other issue which I'm pre-thinking is the DOF. I want detail in the moon AND the landscape, while at the same time achieving a fairly quick shutter speed, like 1/250s or faster. Hence, I want to use a large enough aperture to sustain desired shutter speed AND achieve DOF coverage from front element to infinity. I've had poor results from autofocusing on the moon. It works best for me to focus on a good object at the hyperfocal distance and having confidence that all will be in focus out to infinity (which WILL includes the moon). DOF Master app on my iPhone will be helpful. Once I focus on an object at the hyperfocal distance (or use the distance gauge on the lens), I turn off the AF.

Lastly, altitude and azimuth matter. I intend to scout an area/scene and anticipate (pre-visualize) what will happen when the moon rises (or falls) into place. All the data for the celestial events are out there. We just need to use them.

eta: After studying the data, I know my best opportunity for a moon rise shot will be tonight (Thursday). My best opportunity for a moon set shot will be on Sunday morning.

Message edited by author 2012-08-30 13:17:43.
08/30/2012 01:28:52 PM · #18
Dump

Message edited by author 2012-08-30 16:24:48.
08/30/2012 02:01:48 PM · #19
Originally posted by hahn23:

It will be a challenge to get it done right, though. If you use several exposures you need to shoot them quickly since the moon and earth are continually moving and it will be hard to match up the exposures if you linger more than a split second. In real time, we are oblivious to the speed at which the moon races across the sky. It is significant motion at 1.022 km/s (3679.2 km/hr.).... plus the earth is rotating in a pretty snappy manner (varies by latitude).

The other issue which I'm pre-thinking is the DOF. I want detail in the moon AND the landscape, while at the same time achieving a fairly quick shutter speed, like 1/250s or faster. Hence, I want to use a large enough aperture to sustain desired shutter speed AND achieve DOF coverage from front element to infinity. I've had poor results from autofocusing on the moon. It works best for me to focus on a good object at the hyperfocal distance and having confidence that all will be in focus out to infinity (which WILL includes the moon).

Here is where you can take advantage of the Expert rules to create the effect of HDR without the usual merging of whole files ... when you make an exposure for a detailed Moon, chances are you will have a fully-black background, allowing you to easily cut it out and paste it into the other picture, on top of the over-exposed blur of a Moon in your landscape exposure. You can set the focus exposure, and even zoom for each shot independently, and if you work quickly you should not have to rotate the Moon to match the landscape shot. If you're not used to making composited images, this is a good one to practice on ... :-)
08/30/2012 02:28:21 PM · #20
I'm just hoping the rain and clouds will go away soon.
08/30/2012 03:09:05 PM · #21
any hints on actually getting a good photo of the moon

i only have an 18-200 zoom (f/3.5). i tried last night. i could see the moon detail with my eye, and through the viewfinder, but even at a -3.0 eV exposure comp, ISO 500, f/8, and shutter at around 1/50-ish, it just came out as a white circle, no details...

am i missing something fundamental?

-m
08/30/2012 03:16:53 PM · #22
Originally posted by mefnj:

any hints on actually getting a good photo of the moon

i only have an 18-200 zoom (f/3.5). i tried last night. i could see the moon detail with my eye, and through the viewfinder, but even at a -3.0 eV exposure comp, ISO 500, f/8, and shutter at around 1/50-ish, it just came out as a white circle, no details...

am i missing something fundamental?

-m

Go to manual exposure setting.
08/30/2012 03:21:04 PM · #23
Check the settings for moon shots you like here on DPC.

I think you need ISO100 from what I've seen.

08/30/2012 04:09:35 PM · #24
Originally posted by mefnj:

am i missing something fundamental?

-m

Yes, the Moon is a brightly reflective object in full sunlight surrounded my a huge field of black; almost impossible for any metering system to judge correctly. You need to use manual settings and shoot as if it is a brightly-lit (mid-day) landscape ... I think the mnemonic for this is the "Sunny-16 Rule": f/16 at 1/ISO setting (e.g. f/16 1/200 @ ISO 200) ... adjust accordingly for other aperture/speed/ISO combinations. I've found that once you get in the right range there's actually quite a bit of latitude in usable exposures.

Message edited by author 2012-08-30 16:10:22.
08/30/2012 08:43:52 PM · #25
Originally posted by GeneralE:

Originally posted by mefnj:

am i missing something fundamental?

-m

Yes, the Moon is a brightly reflective object in full sunlight surrounded my a huge field of black; almost impossible for any metering system to judge correctly. You need to use manual settings and shoot as if it is a brightly-lit (mid-day) landscape ... I think the mnemonic for this is the "Sunny-16 Rule": f/16 at 1/ISO setting (e.g. f/16 1/200 @ ISO 200) ... adjust accordingly for other aperture/speed/ISO combinations. I've found that once you get in the right range there's actually quite a bit of latitude in usable exposures.


THANKS! just got back from an afterwork shoot and have some good stuff to work with now. i was finding at with ISO200, 200 mm, and f/8 that between 1/500 and 1/1250 was working pretty good (in case anyone was looking for a starting point).

Message edited by author 2012-08-30 20:44:11.
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