Photoshop help needed :( - DPChallenge Forums

Tamron SP 24-70mm f/2.8 Di VC USD Canon Mount

03/26/2015 12:28:03 PM · #1

I shot 7 images from my tripod to make this panoramic image.

I typically use Photoshop's Photomerge utility, usually with great success. (I am using the latest version of Photoshop CC.)

I usually do not edit the images at all before merging them, electing instead to process the final image. Again, usually with great success.

This particular endeavor has stumped me, and I need some help.

There are three files that can be downloaded from my dropbox:
1 - a zip file of various lo-res versions, to give you an idea of what I've done and what I'm after
2 - the original, out-of-camera files
3 - a PSD of where I am so far

The various versions of what I was able to produce range from dark to bright. The dark is straight out of camera, the bright is highly processed. I am aiming for something more like a "7.5" (using my drafts as a scale) - that is something between my medium and my bright. The "bright" version is the one below; while it looks ok on a computer screen, I think it looks a little to over-processed and uneven to make a nice print.

Click to view larger

If it were a matter of simply displaying the finished image on a computer, I'd probably call it done.

Unfortunately, I want to make a print; precisely, a 30" print.

And this is where I need help.

There is a flaw in the image, in file 0011, in the sky and tree just to the left of the clock tower. I can't tell if it's lens flare, a smudge on the glass, or what, but when blended and lightened, it stands out like a big zit on your nose - and once noticed, it can't be ignored.

Try as I might, I haven't been able to successfully edit around it or clean it up.

I would be ever so grateful for some help. If you are interested or so inclined, please pm me an email address and I'll share the dropbox folder with you.

Thanks in advance!
Skip

Mike

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

03/26/2015 12:42:31 PM · #2

Let me know if you dont get it fixed by the weekend, i'll have a go when I get some free time.

Neil

Fujifilm X-T30

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8G ED

03/26/2015 01:12:37 PM · #3

Hey Skip! And where is your dropbox? I am pretty busy right now, but I'll have a look!

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 17-35mm f/2.8D IF-ED

03/26/2015 01:34:53 PM · #4

Originally posted by Neil:

Hey Skip! And where is your dropbox? I am pretty busy right now, but I'll have a look!

thanks, neil! i pm'd you.

tanguera

Nikon D750

03/26/2015 01:49:39 PM · #5

I'll give it a whirl

Luciemac

Nikon D5600

03/26/2015 02:20:52 PM · #6

"There is a flaw in the image, in file 0011, in the sky and tree just to the left of the clock tower. I can't tell if it's lens flare, a smudge on the glass, or what......."

Skip, without seeing your originals, I took your image into PS CS5 (out of curiosity.....I didn't see the flaw at first). Nothing I did affected the "smudge" (weird!), but finally, I isolated it and cloned over it. Not even sure this "blob" is the one you're talking about, but it was indeed odd that I couldn't affect it in any way until I selected it with the magic wand, of all things, and cloned over it.

So sorry.....my image isn't showing up! I assume the "blob" is the "light" part directly to the left of the tower and directly to the right of the tree in front?

Message edited by author 2015-03-26 14:23:27.

Tamron SP 24-70mm f/2.8 Di VC USD Canon Mount

03/26/2015 02:31:48 PM · #7

Originally posted by Luciemac:

So sorry.....my image isn't showing up! I assume the "blob" is the "light" part directly to the left of the tower and directly to the right of the tree in front?

I pm'd you, Lucie. Yes, it's that weird area in the trees and the sky just to the left of the tower.

Mike

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

03/26/2015 02:38:14 PM · #8

have you tried applying a mask over that area pulling down the magenta channel?

JakeKurdsjuk

Canon EOS R5

Canon RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1 L IS USM

03/26/2015 03:15:18 PM · #9

How is this?

I went back to the original jpegs, adjusted the light in Lightroom and applied noise reduction first and then merged. Did some Photoshop and Nik stuff and then back to LR for some final tweaks. I can still darken the left foreground, but it pulls details out in the buildings a little better while leaving the sky fairly whole.

Message edited by author 2015-03-26 15:18:06.

JakeKurdsjuk

Canon EOS R5

Canon RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1 L IS USM

03/27/2015 08:36:35 AM · #10

OK, so I took what I had previously and brought it closer to what you have for your original lighting. ZIP file with PSD's and whatnot coming to you via PM. Hope this is what you were looking for.

You can pull down the full res jpeg here...

//www.mediafire.com/convkey/3b22/usm0liwmgd5l4nwzg.jpg

Message edited by author 2015-03-27 08:37:52.

Samsung Galaxy S21, S21+, S21 Ultra

03/27/2015 10:16:56 AM · #11

Beautiful work, Jake! This image really highlights difference between what we see on our monitors and what comes out of the printer!

Your image gave me the foundation I needed to get going. I really wish there was some explanation for what caused the flaw in image 0011. That hard line and the difference in exposures are baffling to me. It would seem that if it were in the glass, it would show up consistently, from one frame to the next.

One thing I know is that I will allow even more overlap when shooting panos off my tripod. I typically try to allow for at least 30% between frames. I think that going forward, I'll try for 40-50%.

I've still got a little tweaking to do on my end, but it looks like you've given me a great starting point. And thanks to everyone else for their edits, suggestions, and feedback. I usually don't get into doing this much detailed editing and I've really learned a lot from this exercise!

jgirl57

03/27/2015 10:20:49 AM · #12

Nice work Jake!

Skip when you say you leave 30% between frames what does that mean exactly? I am starting to experiment with panos myself, does that just mean the overlap between the frames you do?

Message edited by author 2015-03-27 10:21:52.

Bear_Music

Sony 24-70mm F4 Vario-Tessar T* FE OSS

03/27/2015 10:23:21 AM · #13

Originally posted by jgirl57:

Nice work Jake!

Skip when you say you leave 30% between frames what does that mean exactly? I am starting to experiment with panos myself, does that just mean the overlap between the frames you do?

That's what he means, yes. In general, the more overlap in panos, the easier it is to get a good blend.

JakeKurdsjuk

Canon EOS R5

Canon RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1 L IS USM

03/27/2015 10:57:31 AM · #14

Originally posted by Skip:

My pleasure, Skip. For me the big difference is making light adjustments to the pre-merged images so that Photoshop has more to work with during the merge process - especially since you're shooting JPEG and not RAW. With that said, I'd heartily recommend going RAW, particularly with night shots like this, since it will allow you to pull out the details you want without the noise.