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06/19/2007 07:05:41 PM · #1 |
Issues about camera/lens quality aside, what types of parameter settings enable shots with the greatest details? I'm mostly referring to wildlife shots, but I guess sharp settings apply generally to any setting where you want a lot of detail out of the subject. I assume sharpness is set to the highest setting, but what about contrast, saturation, and color tone?
As examples of shots that I hope to eventually learn how to take, see these fantastic shots:
//www.dpchallenge.com/image.php?IMAGE_ID=386272
//www.dpchallenge.com/image.php?IMAGE_ID=499850
//www.dpchallenge.com/image.php?IMAGE_ID=188811
//www.dpchallenge.com/image.php?IMAGE_ID=134704
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06/19/2007 07:11:25 PM · #2 |
Here they are:
Message edited by author 2007-06-19 19:11:50.
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06/19/2007 07:20:36 PM · #3 |
Those 4 were shot with a 300 and 400mm Canon L lens. Basically, big, expensive, high quality telephoto lenses. I see you have 300mm on your long end, thats about the minimum focal length for wildlife stuff with a DSLR. Animals tend to run away when you get real close, so the bigger the lens, the better off you tend to be.
Outdoor Photographer has an article online right now called 10 tips for the wildlife in your life... pretty basic stuff, but its an excellent place to start.
Apparently I don't read posts through before I reply... I can almost guarantee you those shots were all shot in RAW so in camera settings don't mean squat...
Message edited by author 2007-06-19 19:24:16. |
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06/19/2007 07:25:13 PM · #4 |
Since you have been so kind to link a couple of my images, I'm more than happy to share some shot parameter ideas. Thanks for the recognition. The other two images are wonderful, by the way.
1. Wide open aperture is almost a given. Animals move a lot. You will need the fastest shutter speed you can muster. Whatever lens you have, set the camera to aperture priority with the widest lens aperture as your setting.
2. Use enough ISO "film" speed. ISO 400 is very common for me for wildlife shots. That is two camera stops faster than ISO 100. Makes a huge difference, because I can shoot a faster shutter speed. It's the faster shutter speed that generates the sharp image.
3. Tripod mount.... 99% of the time. With almost any focal length greater than 200mm, you'll need a tripod to steady the camera. With 400mm or greater, I wouldn't consider a hand held shot. There's just too much body vibration and shutter release button punch and wind to avoid using a tripod.
4. Remote shutter release cable... 99% of the time. I like to keep my hands off the camera. A long range shot with a telephoto lens can be disrupted greatly with many vibrations coming from the photog. Take the body vibrations out of the equation.
5. Use only one focus point. I prefer the center point, rather than the other 8 points, and definitely better than all 9 points. I want control over what point I focus upon. It determines where the DOF plane falls on the subject.
6. I shoot in RAW. It allows me flexibility to slightly adjust exposure after the shot, if I miss it during the shot. And, I strongly believe RAW format gives me a wider dynamic range.
7. I prefer to shoot in the aRGB color space. It's just bigger. But, I always covert to sRGB for internet presentation.
8. Photographing wildlife is just like hunting. Pretend you're a rock. Be downwind with the sun on your back shoulders. That takes some hoofing to get into position relative to the subject, but photogs need to learn to move their feet.
That's a good start on parameters. Hopefully, others will add to the recommendations.
Message edited by author 2007-06-19 19:27:05. |
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06/19/2007 07:27:13 PM · #5 |
Originally posted by hahn23:
7. I prefer to shoot in the aRGB color space. It's just bigger. But, I always covert to sRGB for internet presentation.
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Your camera colour space wont make any difference when shooting RAW. But otherwise, I agree... Bigger is better. |
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