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DPChallenge Forums >> Hardware and Software >> Focusing on Canon EOS 20D
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06/21/2005 04:23:27 PM · #1
I am having a bit of trouble learning to handle the auto focus on my 20D. I went directly to this camera from OM1s and OM3s just a couple of months ago so I am going from manual everything to auto focus, auto exposure, even my first ever zoom lens (Canon 100-400). I also have the canon 100 mm Macro. My problem is, when photographing wildlife, what is the best way to set up the auto focus?
06/21/2005 04:55:43 PM · #2
Originally posted by slab cat:

My problem is, when photographing wildlife, what is the best way to set up the auto focus?


Manual focus. It's the reason most people buy a dSLR.

Message edited by author 2005-06-21 16:56:09.
06/21/2005 05:20:51 PM · #3
I disagree withg faidoi completely: one of the reasons for faster and better bodies and lenses is more accurate and faster auto-focus lock. Mmanual focus is hard to handle without the focussing screen found in the viewfinder of manual SLRs. Auto focus SLRs are made to be used in auto focus mode for most of the time. The autofocus is usually more accurate when used properly than the human eye through a tiny viewfinder.

Focus lock is an important skill to master: get used to aligning one of the focus points on the subject, pressing the button half way to lock the focus, holding the button down while recomposing the shot and completing the press when you have the correct composition. After a while, it is very quick to gain focus lock (more accurate than your eye can be, especially at long focal lengths).

You may wish to lock the focussing ring to one of the nine focal points and get used to always focussing with that one. The central point on the 20d has a very sensitive focussing meter on the centre point when using an aperture below about 5.6 (from memory). It reduduces sensitivity to the same as the other focussing points at smaller apertures.

With the macro, focussing has to be manual. And manual means moving in and out with the body, as well as twiddling the focussing ring.

If you are having real difficulty at long focal lengths, focussing through, say, tall grass, you could try focussing on something that is the same ditance away but easier to target (say a tree), and switch to manual focus then, bwing careful not to knock the focussing ring while recomposing.

06/21/2005 05:58:23 PM · #4
How big/active is the wildlife?

I will generally (almost always) Set autofocus to the center focal point and use AF AI Servo mode for the animals (subjects) that are moving quite a bit like flying Birds, running animals and the likes. I will half trigger squeeze and track (keep the center focal point on) the subject until I see the composition that I want.

AI Servo mode becomes a problem when shooting a stationary subject as if you have a half trigger squeeze and take the center focal point off the subject in the slightest one ends up back focusing the shot.

If you are just starting with your first AF rig...Practice, Practice and more Practice...get used to using the joystick to select differt AF Points...All AF Points and just the center focal point.

Use AF Single shot mode for most of your Stationary and Portrait Work, and use AF Servo mode for the subjects that are moving.

I don't use the tweener mode AF AI (something or other) it is supposed to be the best of both worlds...it is supposed to switch between single shot and servo mode depending on what the subject is doing. Sounds good but I don't trust the cam to make the right choice for me.

Message edited by author 2005-06-21 17:59:46.
06/22/2005 10:11:17 AM · #5
Thank you all very much for the input! I will definitely try switching the modes as described. I have been getting frustrated into manually focusing and encountering precisely what was described, with no focusing screen. My last disaster was trying to use teh center spot in servo mode on fairly stationary targets and my own wobbles resulted in severe back focusing. I will definitely practice!
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