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06/30/2005 06:17:01 PM · #26 |
I just couldn't resist, so I took a whirl at it-
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06/30/2005 06:55:00 PM · #27 |
Here's how you fix it;
Call Billy Graham & have him come back so you can reshoot your pics. I'm sure he'll take your call... |
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07/01/2005 01:04:52 PM · #28 |
Originally posted by peterish:
The exposure compensation was not messed with; infact I was shooting in Full Manual, which doesn't even let me change the exposure compensation in either direction. The settings I used for most of the day was F2.8, ~1/350, ISO 80, white balance=Sun. I think those settings are pretty well balanced. That day was extremely hazy and cloudless, so I'm thinking it's simply the intensity of the sun... |
There's your problem: back in the film days, our rule of thumb for bright sunlight exposure was f:16 at the reciprocal of the film speed. In this case, ISO 80, that would be f:16 at 1/80th. f:2.8 is 5 stops wider than f:16 (16, 11, 8, 5.6, 4.0, 2.8) and so the shutter speed should be 5 stops quicker, or 1/2560th (1/80, 1/160, 1/320, 1/640. 1/1280, 1/2560). Your image is 3 STOPS OVEREXPOSED, give or take, and thus all the bright areas are jammed onto the right edge of the histogram and no detail is recoverable.
Robt.
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07/01/2005 01:10:49 PM · #29 |
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07/01/2005 01:20:29 PM · #30 |
What would be nice is to allow for a new paradigm in color as digital cameras get better and better. In graphics, there is something called HDR, or high dynamic range. Basically, due to the limitations of cameras and file formats and what not, there is a limit to how bright a bright can get before it is full white, and how dark a dark can get before it is full black. Some systems allow for brighter brights and darker darks, such as some 3d graphics programs (basically you can have colors brighter than 255 and darker than 0.. i think they use floating point numbers to define color).
So how does this help here? Imagine a camera that is so sensitive that it can capture a color range so wide that even the overblown or dark shadows have a wide enough color range to allow for editing. This is currently possible to fake by taking multiple exposures at different settings to capture enough data from the darks and lights and composite the photos.
Of course the RAW will need to be modified to allow color higher than 255 and lower than 0 (in terms of normal RGB). But that would be a huge improvement in digital, and the ccd would probably cost an arm and a leg. |
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07/01/2005 01:51:26 PM · #31 |
saracat, I'm not sure if anyone refreshed your memory yet but if not, you go to the layer pallette and click on that split two colored circle and when its menu pops up you click on threshold. Then you can mark your light or dark points with the color sampler tool and then hit Ctrl M and choose your light point or dark point, whichever you're adjusting and click on the corresponding tab on the box/pallette that is there. (Black point on the left, white point on the right). This is part of my limited Photoshop knowledge, lol. There may be other ways to do it but thats how I was taught.
Ignore me if you already remembered :) |
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