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09/28/2005 05:12:01 PM · #1 |
I am currently looking for a lens i could use for basketball. It is my understanding that I will need somewhat of a 'normal' lens that is fast somewhere between 20ish-65ish. I looked around and cant seem to anything. As far as price, i am just looking around for something just to see what is out there. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
-toiletboy99999 |
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09/28/2005 05:20:00 PM · #2 |
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09/28/2005 05:25:24 PM · #3 |
I think it would depend on where you plan on sitting?
For value prolly the 50 F/1.8..
For more reach I would say the 85 F/1.8..
But I have never tried, those just seem like logical choices to me..
I remember a shot a long time ago from Ridergal that was shot w/a 55mm and it turned out nice..
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09/28/2005 06:00:41 PM · #4 |
I've used the canon 85 f1.8 with decent results. But, that was in horribly lit high school and jr high school gyms. With a better lit gym it would probably work great.
I tried a sigma 70-200 f2.8, and the f2.8 just wasn't fast enough, couldn't get a decent shutter speed.
Doug
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09/28/2005 07:01:37 PM · #5 |
I'd be afraid of anything shorter than the 70-200 unless you're right up on the line. (and likely to get hit)
One secret I heard about "the big leagues" is that they use pocket wizards (wireless transmitter/receiver) to fire remote flashes that are up above the court. (note: I've never gone to a big league game to see if it was true) |
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09/28/2005 07:04:49 PM · #6 |
My 85mm was plenty of "reach", but I was right down on the floor about 3 feet outside of the out of bounds line. On the games I shot they didn't mind an amateur getting down on the court close...I was the only one taking pictures anyway! Tho a zoom would have been nice at times...
One tip, ALWAYS stay out of the way of the refs, and toss any balls that come your way back to them. That way they don't seem to hassle you. :-)
Doug
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09/28/2005 07:08:19 PM · #7 |
Originally posted by dwterry:
I'd be afraid of anything shorter than the 70-200 unless you're right up on the line. (and likely to get hit)
One secret I heard about "the big leagues" is that they use pocket wizards (wireless transmitter/receiver) to fire remote flashes that are up above the court. (note: I've never gone to a big league game to see if it was true) |
Just watch any NBA or College game and you will see the Strobes/Flashes firing all the time-- If you are watching the action, ya really dont notice, but if you look for em, its really quite annoying, kinda like if you listen for the Squeeks of the shoes, But I have OCD, LMAO! |
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09/28/2005 07:14:19 PM · #8 |
Originally posted by toiletboy99999:
I am currently looking for a lens i could use for basketball. |
I'd recommend a ball. It works much better! ;-)
-Terry
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09/28/2005 07:23:08 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by ClubJuggle:
I'd recommend a ball. It works much better! ;-) |
Dang, I was just about to make a similarly smart-assed remark -- you beat me to it! |
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09/28/2005 07:36:11 PM · #10 |
A 50 1.4 for under the basket shots works great. Look at the 135 2 (or longer) for down the court shots.
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09/28/2005 08:19:49 PM · #11 |
| I plan on shooting from the baseline. Not directly under the net, but slightly to the side |
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09/28/2005 08:49:12 PM · #12 |
What kind of games will you be shooting? I've found that for 7th grade girls basketball, a 24-70 f2.8 works if you set the ISO to 1600. The camera was set to Av and f2.8, and generally got about 1/125 (or within a stop of that). This stopped the action just fine. All the parochial school gyms had about the same amount of light, and I was right on the sidelines.
The tournament was in a High School gym, which was bigger (I could still get to the sidelines, but the court was larger). The gym seemed to be better lit, but I still needed ISO 1600. I noticed the boy's team seemed to be playing a faster game, so 1/125 may not be fast enough for boy's teams or high-school games.
I tried a 75-300mm IS lens (with flash) but it was just too long on the 300D when the action came to my side of the court. Of course, if you want close-ups of the player's faces, the 70-200 f2.8 may be just the right thing.
Just bought a 50mm, so now I can try faster speeds (or 400/800 ISO)
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09/28/2005 09:10:22 PM · #13 |
Another key when shooting high iso levels, you need to set the white balance correctly and try to get it as close to perfect out of the camera. For High school and younger 85mm works vey well on the side lines. To get good stop action you need to shoot min. 250 shutter up to 500 using the 50mm 1.4. One of the reasons I upgraded cameras, is indoor low light action shots.....Always try get the ball in the shot..imo
I haven't had a chance use some of the prime f2.0 135mm & 200mm, should get you close to the action......bottom line, white balance and a fast lens. (shutter speed) |
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09/29/2005 10:13:15 AM · #14 |
Originally posted by ace flyman:
Another key when shooting high iso levels, you need to set the white balance correctly and try to get it as close to perfect out of the camera. For High school and younger 85mm works vey well on the side lines. To get good stop action you need to shoot min. 250 shutter up to 500 using the 50mm 1.4. One of the reasons I upgraded cameras, is indoor low light action shots.....Always try get the ball in the shot..imo
I haven't had a chance use some of the prime f2.0 135mm & 200mm, should get you close to the action......bottom line, white balance and a fast lens. (shutter speed) |
OK, looking over my shots from last year, 1/250 would be needed for stop action, 1/125 often gives the face and torso stopped, with motion blur on hands and feet and ball (You may want some motion blur, though). And action moving toward you is more frozen than action moving from left to right.
Also, camera shake due to getting excited and smashing the shutter button is a problem for me; I have to intentionally remember the proper form. You may find that you have to divorce yourself from the game and not get excited by it, especially if you have a son or daughter or friend in it.
Agreed that WB is crucial; the coffee filter trick usually works fine. I shoot RAW so I can fine tune the exposure, the 300D isn't perfect and sometimes makes bad decisions. And most of the gyms I was in used fluorescent lights, so if you use a flash you should gell it.
Message edited by author 2005-09-29 10:20:59. |
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09/29/2005 10:32:21 AM · #15 |
I assume your going to on the floor, right?
Back in college I used to use two camera bodies. One with a 35 f1.4 around my neck with a camera strap for the goal next to me. And another body with a 200 f2 on a short monopod (for sitting on the floor)for the other end. Just be careful, cause I was knocked unconcious by a powerforward trying to keep a ball in play. |
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09/29/2005 05:10:58 PM · #16 |
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09/29/2005 07:16:11 PM · #17 |
Originally posted by toiletboy99999:
I plan on shooting from the baseline. Not directly under the net, but slightly to the side |
I shoot from that same position... Here's what I can tell you...
1. The 50 or 85mm f/1.8 lens is a bit too long on a digital camera for that close range shooting. You will be able to get decent shots with either of those lenses if you don't mind using manual focus. The lighting in most non-professional gyms is too low and the autofocus on those lenses is not fast enough.
2. I use my 24-70 f/2.8 from that position along with my 550ex flash dialed down 2/3 or 1 full stop. I get decent shots, but the depth of field is not very shallow overall.
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09/29/2005 07:36:08 PM · #18 |
Originally posted by hankk:
Originally posted by ace flyman:
Another key when shooting high iso levels, you need to set the white balance correctly and try to get it as close to perfect out of the camera. For High school and younger 85mm works vey well on the side lines. To get good stop action you need to shoot min. 250 shutter up to 500 using the 50mm 1.4. One of the reasons I upgraded cameras, is indoor low light action shots.....Always try get the ball in the shot..imo
I haven't had a chance use some of the prime f2.0 135mm & 200mm, should get you close to the action......bottom line, white balance and a fast lens. (shutter speed) |
OK, looking over my shots from last year, 1/250 would be needed for stop action, 1/125 often gives the face and torso stopped, with motion blur on hands and feet and ball (You may want some motion blur, though). And action moving toward you is more frozen than action moving from left to right.
Also, camera shake due to getting excited and smashing the shutter button is a problem for me; I have to intentionally remember the proper form. You may find that you have to divorce yourself from the game and not get excited by it, especially if you have a son or daughter or friend in it.
Agreed that WB is crucial; the coffee filter trick usually works fine. I shoot RAW so I can fine tune the exposure, the 300D isn't perfect and sometimes makes bad decisions. And most of the gyms I was in used fluorescent lights, so if you use a flash you should gell it. |
text
A little motion blur can add to the action, shooting from the side lines with players going left and right is a little tough with slower shutter speeds. I also used the coffee filter trick and works ok, went to a gray card and seem to work a little better. With the 300d had way more losers than keepers, shoot a lot of shots.......ace |
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09/29/2005 07:37:33 PM · #19 |
I used 500th under the basket for dunk shots. A 50mm on a film camera worked great for that.
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09/30/2005 12:21:38 AM · #20 |
If you want normal on a cropped sensor, then consider the Canon 35mm or the Sigma 30mm f1.4DC, very nice lens, just reviewed nicely on Popular PHotography this month.
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09/30/2005 08:17:13 AM · #21 |
Originally posted by ace flyman:
With the 300d had way more losers than keepers, shoot a lot of shots.......ace |
And I thought it was just my lack of skill. What a great excuse for upgrading! ;-)
Message edited by author 2005-09-30 08:18:34. |
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