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06/16/2006 12:28:46 PM · #1 |
I have a Nikon D70 that I use with a set of Alien Bees Studio Lights (I have a 400 and 800 Alien Bees with Shoot through umbrellas, silver and white with black back umbrellas). I typically use the shoot through umbrella -creating sort of a soft box effect.
I've been primarily taking portraits of children for family and friends. I have been a little disappointed with the end results and have been playing around with different settings (It has appeared fuzzy and sometimes I have to adjust color balance in Photoshop). I'm looking for some advice on a good combination of settings.
Lens Used: Sigma 28-80 mm f/3.5-5.6 and Sigma 70-300 mm (I usually use the 28-80 set at approx. 70 mm). Other postings suggest an AF Nikkor 50 mm F/1.8 for portraits. Would this be a wise choice?
I also use the SB-80 to trigger the strobes (I cover the light source & use a remote). The distance to the subject is about 7-8 feet. The subject is about 3 feet from the background.
I'd appreciate any tips on making a better portrait and any suggestions on equipment or techniques.
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06/16/2006 12:41:00 PM · #2 |
Check your shutter speed. I set my indoors to 1/125 just to be safe when I zoom in. My hands are shaky too.
Nick
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06/16/2006 12:46:50 PM · #3 |
get this book.
do you have a light meter? If not - GET ONE. You cannot do anything beyond the very basics with strobes without a meter. You need to be able to measure each light and set them in relation to eachother.
how you set up the lights (physically pointing them, and rthe modifiers) decide what type of portrait you are going to get (hi key, low key, flat, butterfly, loop lighting, etc). the pose of the subject can make a different (broad or short lighting).
the simplest (and often most boring) is to put a light to your right and left, about 45 degrees to the subject bounced into umbrellas - fine for groups or school yarbook shots - but rather flat and boring. you are trying to make a 3 dimensional statement on a 2 dimensional piece of paper -shadows help do this.
set the lights at the 'boring' 45 degree bit.
camera on manual, 1/125, F8 - photography is all about controlling the light - so get a PC cord and hot shoe adapter and get teh light off the hotshoe.
Set the key light at teh subjects face so that it will read f5.6 on the handlheld meter. set the fill light to read one stop darker, or F4. together they add to the F8 yuu set the camera for. try that.
issues: using umbrellas like this will let the light spill on the BG - you want to light it seperately. You have no kicker or hair light (if you have a third light, set it at 5.6 and ain at eh back of the heard of hte subject, preferable from above to light the shoulder & hair)
put the modeling lights on FULL. turn one on and the rest off and watch how the light falls on the subjects face (and body). For example, you want to light the whole nose, not just the tip. You need to learn to see the light and shadows...easy in person, hard over the web/with a book (for me to learn it anyway)
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06/16/2006 01:06:16 PM · #4 |
Can you post some examples.
I also have two lights but have no flash meter and my picture come out great.
Message edited by author 2006-06-16 13:08:01. |
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06/16/2006 01:06:46 PM · #5 |
I just have to say thanks to all the more experienced photographers that take their time to explain things/techniques to us amateurs. It is much appreciated and it certainly inspires us to keep trying and to motivate us further. :-)
(I intend to buy this book Prof. Fate suggested) |
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06/16/2006 01:42:35 PM · #6 |
[quote=Prof_Fate] get this book.
do you have a light meter?
Yes, I do have a light meter, although I haven't quite figured it out. I have been able to attach it to the Alien Bee's via a chord & play around with the settings. I usually use the 125 shutter speed.
the simplest (and often most boring) is to put a light to your right and left, about 45 degrees to the subject bounced into umbrellas - fine for groups or school yarbook shots - but rather flat and boring. you are trying to make a 3 dimensional statement on a 2 dimensional piece of paper -shadows help do this.
Thanks for the tips on this. I have only been using one light because using both seems to overexpose the subject. I have been putting one to the camera's right and have been putting it higher than the subject instead of straight on.
camera on manual, 1/125, F8 - photography is all about controlling the light - so get a PC cord and hot shoe adapter and get teh light off the hotshoe.
----Can I do this with the D70? There is no input for a sync cord (that I can find). That's why I have been using the SB80 with the light covered up. I only use it to send the infrared signal to the other lights.
Thank you so much for all of your advice and suggestions!! I really do appreciate it. I will post some pictures later. I'm not on the one I use for portraits. |
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06/16/2006 01:56:15 PM · #7 |
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06/21/2006 10:44:18 AM · #8 |
Thanks for all of the tips. Tmhalling - I like the adapter that added the link to.
Here are a couple of examples that I have taken of my son.
Picture 1
Picture 2
The pictures are not as clear as I would like them to be and some times I need to adjust the color curves.
Message edited by alanfreed - Editing to link to giant photos.. |
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06/21/2006 10:49:25 AM · #9 |
First - You should provide a link to your images rather than posting them full-size in the forums - remember some users have dial-up connections.
Second - You should move your subject farther away from the background material. This will allow the background to fall out of focus and give some needed separation between subject and bg. |
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06/21/2006 10:53:23 AM · #10 |
a lot of the time with dSLR cameras the photos do not comeout especially sharp. Check the settings in your camera, and see if the camera is doing and in camera sharpening. to me it doesnt look like a focus or lighting issue. Also if your considering doing portraiture, i would invest in a couple of better quality lenses, i would go with the 50mm 1.8 and the 85mm 1.8(or maybe something with a little more reach).. just my opinion :)
-Dan |
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06/21/2006 02:31:35 PM · #11 |
Idnic - thanks for adjusting my pictures. I'm new to this and I thought that I had just added the URL until I saw the actual posting. I appreciate that! I will try moving the subject farther away from the background. I'm a little limited on space and am trying to figure out the best set up.
Dan - thanks for the suggested lenses. I've been considering the 50mm f/1.8 lens. I think that this would be a good addition.
Has anyone heard of the Nikon D70 needing adjustment? I was reading something else about the camera's sensor occasionally focusing an inch behind the subject.
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06/21/2006 02:47:06 PM · #12 |
just a quick question. Lots of people recomend the 50mm 1.4 or similar for portraits, but then everyone suggests using F8 on the camera?
Is it better to use F8 on a minimum F1.4 enabled lens than using F8 on a min F4.5 lens?
(edited - I meant "a quick question" not "a quick suggestion")
Message edited by author 2006-06-21 14:51:08. |
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06/21/2006 03:03:13 PM · #13 |
Having an aperture that opens up to 1.4 or 1.8 as opposed to say 3.5 on most zooms allows you to complete isolate your subject from the background by giving a shallow depth of field as in this portrait  . I shot this with an 85mm at 1.8. However in the studio many times your lights will be a such a power that will not allow you to open up to 1.8. Most common is f8 or f11. You can use a ND filter on the lense to bring allow your lens to open up more creating a shallower depth of field. Sometimes you won't want to completely isolate the subject from the background and will use the position of your lighting to accomplish that. Of course I am sure someone more experienced on this can answer this question better than but just my $.02 worth.
Message edited by author 2006-06-21 15:03:53. |
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06/21/2006 04:04:07 PM · #14 |
Originally posted by tmhalling:
I shot this with an 85mm at 1.8. However in the studio many times your lights will be a such a power that will not allow you to open up to 1.8. Most common is f8 or f11. You can use a ND filter on the lense to bring allow your lens to open up more creating a shallower depth of field. |
You can also use ND gels on the strobes.
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