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11/29/2006 03:42:04 PM · #401 |
I use a Visatec Litepac on location. With a single LP1 head, I get 600w/s. With 2 heads, I get 300w/s each. 600w/s is just enough to balance with bright daylight if I'm shooting outside, but I have to get creative with positioning and modifiers if I want to overpower.
In studio, I borrow a pair of AB800's (330w/s each). Softboxes and big modifiers can suck up light, but it's just enough to get by on (f/8 ISO100 at typical distances).
A 150w/s light is 1 stop less which I wouldn't mind for headshots, portraits, or half body work. I'd want more output though to stop down with for full body, and I probably wouldn't try to use it for location work in bright ambient conditions.
For crop factor cameras, a 600w/s light is plenty and 300w/s is fine. You might want to step up the power if you're shooting full 35mm, and you'll definitely want to step it up if you're shooting medium or large format.
Originally posted by Lee_Mann: Thanks yea i live right near a henry's store and have been in to see those lights i just didn't know if the 120watts would be enough, what types of setups to most people use here? im looking to get into this full time and want something that i can start using for all types of shoots right
Thanks
Originally posted by p3wiz: I was just in henrys and they have a kit on sale that looks good to get started (search for item 369NAD020)
Two Monolights (150 w/s)
Two 7' Light Stands
Two 46" Umbrellas
One Barndoor and Honeycomb and 4 Colour filter kit
One Snoot and Honeycomb and 4 Colour filter kit
One Studio Carrying Case
regular $800 on sale for $650. (and free shipping)
Originally posted by Lee_Mann: hey there everyone, I was just reading over all of the advice in this thread, lots of great stuff, anyways my question is I'm looking to setup my own studio and am wondering what i should start with. I have been looking at lights and I would like to get some ABs however they are only sold out of the states and I'm in Canada (brokerage costs) i would really like to get something going before the holidays so any advice on what to start with and recommendations would be of great help.
Thanks
Lee Mann | | |
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12/06/2006 08:21:12 AM · #402 |
Here I am trying to bring it back again ! ! ! Okay this question isn't really about lighting. I have a couple of shoots lined up for the next couple of weekends. It's obviously going to be REALLY cold and we are shooting outside. Any tips on how to keep your models warm while shooting outside. Especially when they want to shoot in skirts or dresses?? |
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12/06/2006 08:59:16 AM · #403 |
Originally posted by albc28: Here I am trying to bring it back again ! ! ! Okay this question isn't really about lighting. I have a couple of shoots lined up for the next couple of weekends. It's obviously going to be REALLY cold and we are shooting outside. Any tips on how to keep your models warm while shooting outside. Especially when they want to shoot in skirts or dresses?? |
Wear clothes ?
Rent patio heaters
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12/06/2006 09:00:36 AM · #404 |
Originally posted by albc28: Here I am trying to bring it back again ! ! ! Okay this question isn't really about lighting. I have a couple of shoots lined up for the next couple of weekends. It's obviously going to be REALLY cold and we are shooting outside. Any tips on how to keep your models warm while shooting outside. Especially when they want to shoot in skirts or dresses?? |
Well now there is an interesting question. I took a model out a couple of weeks ago to the beaches and wanted to shoot her in a swimsuit, but knew the beach wind would be FREEZING. We had her in jeans and a zip-up sweater until the moment of shooting when she could undress quickly. You might try having your models dress in easily removable layers to keep them warm until time to shoot -- you could also go for a high energy shoot by having them run in place, hop, jump, etc... great for dynamics in the shots, but keeps the models warm too. Just don't let them get sweaty. :)
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12/06/2006 03:04:18 PM · #405 |
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12/06/2006 06:43:47 PM · #406 |
Originally posted by idnic: Originally posted by albc28: Here I am trying to bring it back again ! ! ! Okay this question isn't really about lighting. I have a couple of shoots lined up for the next couple of weekends. It's obviously going to be REALLY cold and we are shooting outside. Any tips on how to keep your models warm while shooting outside. Especially when they want to shoot in skirts or dresses?? |
Well now there is an interesting question. I took a model out a couple of weeks ago to the beaches and wanted to shoot her in a swimsuit, but knew the beach wind would be FREEZING. We had her in jeans and a zip-up sweater until the moment of shooting when she could undress quickly. You might try having your models dress in easily removable layers to keep them warm until time to shoot -- you could also go for a high energy shoot by having them run in place, hop, jump, etc... great for dynamics in the shots, but keeps the models warm too. Just don't let them get sweaty. :) |
If you're shooting swimsuit, you don't want to run the chance of wearing something that'll leave lines. Use robes, parkas, sweats, blankets, etc.
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12/13/2006 10:30:23 AM · #407 |
Was shooting some kids to give some prints to their moms, who are great friends, for Christmas. Below are some more traditional shots, but as we all got a little bored, I tried some posed, maybe campy, shots of them (fake) fighting with each other. I'd appreciate some opinions as to whether the campy shots are fun....or just stupid.
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
Dale
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12/13/2006 10:39:33 AM · #408 |
Hey Dale! I don't think they're stupid at all, I like the fun expressions you get when you let kids just be themselves (even if its a little forced). My question though -- what lens are you using? A couple of the shots look a bit soft. It might be from resizing though, do you sharpen after you resize? You should. ;)
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12/13/2006 10:46:47 AM · #409 |
Hi Cindi,
I didn't sharpen them after re-sizing, I don't think, so that's hopefully it. I was shooting a Sigma 18-50 2.8 at about f8 or f9.5.
Thanks for the comments, too. I still lust after some Alien Bees. My puny little Sigma strobe just didn't cut it trying to shoot more than one person.
Thanks again for the feedback.
Dale |
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12/13/2006 01:05:15 PM · #410 |
by the way just to let you all know i picked up 2 Abs 800s and a 400 to start i will be getting them this week and will post some shots after i get everything setup.
Im just looking at getting some modifiers for the lights what do you suggest? i was just going to get some umbrellas to start but what about a softbox ect....
any help would be great. Also im going to get a few muslins and some paper what do you think are the most useful ones to start out getting?
Thanks
Lee |
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12/13/2006 01:09:32 PM · #411 |
I think I'm going to buy a Teleconverter lens for my camera this month for portraits. Any photographers out there use teleconverter lens for portraits want to tell me if its any better?? |
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12/13/2006 01:13:03 PM · #412 |
Hey, congrats on the new toys, Lee. I hear santa will be bringing several sets of Bees this year, so your questions will likely be common ones.
As for modifiers, I personally use a 30X30 softbox (not AB brand) on my key light (or fill light depending on how I want to use it). The thing to know there is if you get a non-AB softbox, you'll have to buy the AB mounting ring - you're better off just getting the AB softbox in the end. For my background lights, I use either a background modifyer (from AB), or silver reflective umbrellas - same for the other fill light. So - in my opinion, 2 umbrellas and a softbox is a great place to start --- then you can play with snoods and barndoors and stuff like that later on.
As for muslins, start with something neutral in color and get some gels for your lights so you can 'make' any color you want. Gray works well for this as does black.
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12/13/2006 02:06:22 PM · #413 |
Cindi,
Since you mentioned lenses earlier, I wondered if you were happy with your Canon 50 1.8? Would you think the 1.4 would be worth the extra $200 or not? Do you use your 50 a lot in your portrait work, or do you use another lens?
Thanks,
Dale |
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12/13/2006 02:10:22 PM · #414 |
Originally posted by dale99: Cindi,
Since you mentioned lenses earlier, I wondered if you were happy with your Canon 50 1.8? Would you think the 1.4 would be worth the extra $200 or not? Do you use your 50 a lot in your portrait work, or do you use another lens?
Thanks,
Dale |
I have both the 1.8 and the 1.4, the 1.4 is DEFINITELY worth the money! I use it for about 90% of my portraits. I'm looking at buying a shorter lens for studio work - gimme a week and I may change that answer.
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12/13/2006 02:18:30 PM · #415 |
I had the 50 1.8 for a long time. A great portrait lens.
I recently got a good deal on the 50 1.4 and it is much better than the 1.8, in terms of build, focus speed etc. It also balances a 1DII a lot better than the very light 1.8
I've recently switched to using an 85 1.8 for nearly all my single portraits. The 50 on a 1.3x or full frame camera is a bit too short a focal length for portraits and isn't as flattering as it was on a 1.6x crop camera. There's certainly situations that call for wider lenses for portraits, but the lack of compression just isn't as flattering to a face.
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12/13/2006 03:13:20 PM · #416 |
Good points Gordon, and thanks for the response Cindi. I've balked at getting a 50 because I want to get a 5D within the next year, and I won't use it much on a full size sensor camera. When I shot film I used to use an 85 or 100 for any portraits. A 50 just wasn't a good choice.
Decisions,decisions.... |
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12/13/2006 03:35:09 PM · #417 |
It isn't so great for single, tight portraits, though I did shoot my most favourite picture of the year with a 50mm 1.4 It is still a great lens on a full frame camera, just not for headshots. In fact I shot the whole wedding with that one lens.
This one was my favourite
Just married
and this is the rest of them with one picture shot with a 17-40 and the rest all the 50 1.4
Message edited by author 2006-12-13 15:36:43.
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12/14/2006 11:44:27 PM · #418 |
Hi there everyone, I just got 2 of my Abs tonight 800 and 400 and was testing them out, it was late here so i grabs one of my sisters and got her to do some quick modeling for me (she was kinda mad about not being able to get ready) anyways take a look at them and let me know what you think. Im in a couple (sorry I haven't shaved in a few days haha) I hope to get the rest of the studio over the next few days.
heres the link ( thought you could post pictures on here) but i uploaded these so you can download them from here
//www.sendspace.com/file/qenxq8
Thanks in advance for the advice ect...
Lee |
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12/17/2006 08:10:31 PM · #419 |
hi - i hope this is an appropriate question here - i have just found this thread and i am working slowly throug it - it is a really great learning resource
so here's the thing (apologies if it has been dealt with elsewhere - i did try searching - if so a link to the relevant thread would be appreciated) -
i have a fuji s7000 and a set of studio flashes on tripods, soft box umbrella etc - and i'm learning to use them - the flashes have modelling lights - the modelling lights can be adjusted with a dial which also adjusts the intensity of the flash
but because of fairly poor eyesight i am very much dependent on my camera's auto focus - and sometimes it struggles to get a focus using the modelling lights - even when there is other artificial light available in the room
i'm trying to experiment to see if i can improve things by moving the camera closer, or further away and turning the lighst up, but its quite time consuming and i haven't hit a perfect set up yet. i have tried turning the lights up and moving back but then i find i need to use the zoom and i have dof problems if there is more than one person in the shot
i've also considered getting a single hot light which would proviode enough light for focussing - and since i really like studio pictures i might change camera (if i could afford it) to one with a superior auto focussing system
anyone been in this difficulty before and managed to work round it ? |
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12/17/2006 09:21:53 PM · #420 |
Originally posted by thelobster: hi - i hope this is an appropriate question here - i have just found this thread and i am working slowly throug it - it is a really great learning resource
so here's the thing (apologies if it has been dealt with elsewhere - i did try searching - if so a link to the relevant thread would be appreciated) -
i have a fuji s7000 and a set of studio flashes on tripods, soft box umbrella etc - and i'm learning to use them - the flashes have modelling lights - the modelling lights can be adjusted with a dial which also adjusts the intensity of the flash
but because of fairly poor eyesight i am very much dependent on my camera's auto focus - and sometimes it struggles to get a focus using the modelling lights - even when there is other artificial light available in the room
i'm trying to experiment to see if i can improve things by moving the camera closer, or further away and turning the lighst up, but its quite time consuming and i haven't hit a perfect set up yet. i have tried turning the lights up and moving back but then i find i need to use the zoom and i have dof problems if there is more than one person in the shot
i've also considered getting a single hot light which would proviode enough light for focussing - and since i really like studio pictures i might change camera (if i could afford it) to one with a superior auto focussing system
anyone been in this difficulty before and managed to work round it ? |
Sounds like you need brighter general lighting in the room. Have an overhead light, lamps, whatever you need to be able to see and focus properly. Your strobes are so much stronger than ambient light that the lamps, etc, will not be noticed in the final image.
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12/17/2006 09:46:54 PM · #421 |
Originally posted by thelobster: hi - i hope this is an appropriate question here - i have just found this thread and i am working slowly throug it - it is a really great learning resource
so here's the thing (apologies if it has been dealt with elsewhere - i did try searching - if so a link to the relevant thread would be appreciated) -
i have a fuji s7000 and a set of studio flashes on tripods, soft box umbrella etc - and i'm learning to use them - the flashes have modelling lights - the modelling lights can be adjusted with a dial which also adjusts the intensity of the flash
but because of fairly poor eyesight i am very much dependent on my camera's auto focus - and sometimes it struggles to get a focus using the modelling lights - even when there is other artificial light available in the room
i'm trying to experiment to see if i can improve things by moving the camera closer, or further away and turning the lighst up, but its quite time consuming and i haven't hit a perfect set up yet. i have tried turning the lights up and moving back but then i find i need to use the zoom and i have dof problems if there is more than one person in the shot
i've also considered getting a single hot light which would proviode enough light for focussing - and since i really like studio pictures i might change camera (if i could afford it) to one with a superior auto focussing system
anyone been in this difficulty before and managed to work round it ? |
Yup, happens all the time. Flashlights work on location. If I'm in studio, I use the room lights. I've even used floor lamps pointed at my subjects to act as modeling lamps (and to constrict pupils, though you need to be cafeful of catchlights).

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12/17/2006 10:33:38 PM · #422 |
Originally posted by thelobster: hi - i hope this is an appropriate question here - i have just found this thread and i am working slowly throug it - it is a really great learning resource
so here's the thing (apologies if it has been dealt with elsewhere - i did try searching - if so a link to the relevant thread would be appreciated) -
i have a fuji s7000 and a set of studio flashes on tripods, soft box umbrella etc - and i'm learning to use them - the flashes have modelling lights - the modelling lights can be adjusted with a dial which also adjusts the intensity of the flash
but because of fairly poor eyesight i am very much dependent on my camera's auto focus - and sometimes it struggles to get a focus using the modelling lights - even when there is other artificial light available in the room
i'm trying to experiment to see if i can improve things by moving the camera closer, or further away and turning the lighst up, but its quite time consuming and i haven't hit a perfect set up yet. i have tried turning the lights up and moving back but then i find i need to use the zoom and i have dof problems if there is more than one person in the shot
i've also considered getting a single hot light which would proviode enough light for focussing - and since i really like studio pictures i might change camera (if i could afford it) to one with a superior auto focussing system
anyone been in this difficulty before and managed to work round it ? |
As a legally blind photog, I am at least 95% dependent on autofocus. While most AF systems do work best in lots of light, you do have to be careful of extra catch lights and pupil constriction in portraits.
Without changing cameras, maybe, you could add light and lock focus, and then turn the lights down a bit. You'd have to be on a tripod for this.
I would think that most modeling lights would give enough light for AF lock though.
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12/26/2006 11:26:16 AM · #423 |
Originally posted by Myself in another thread and Cindi requested I post it here: So My wife says, "I'm around the corner from B&H do you want anything for Christmas?" I'm thinking SB-600 or 800.
In my searches for more info on each, I found a nifty little Lighting Techniques PDF from Nikon. Very informative. Even if you don't use Nikon read it. You might learn something new (unless you're idnic, the goddess of lighting). They explain the setups nicely and compare them against using only the on camera flash. |
Enjoy! |
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01/24/2007 08:21:19 PM · #424 |
I posted this elsewhere yesterday, but its well worth posting here also. Some great tutorials here: Web Photo School. Their membership looks expensive, but if you pay the $10 for one month you can print all of the tutorials you think you want and read them at your leisure. Some of the lighting information there is priceless!
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01/24/2007 08:58:43 PM · #425 |
Once again cindi is Web Wonder Woman!!! |
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