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07/29/2004 07:48:57 PM · #1 |
| Does anyone have any pics using this method for portraits. Greatly appreciated. |
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07/29/2004 08:12:51 PM · #2 |
I used a high wattage grow-light set into a 10" Home Depot flood lamp, a goose neck desk lamp with a 75 W natural light bulb and a 8" HD flood lamp with a 75 W bulb for the two portraits. I just used the desk lamp and the 8" lamp for the clippers. |
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07/29/2004 10:53:30 PM · #3 |
No portraits per se, but these challenge entries were all taken with a single 500w Home Depot work light as the source:
  
The last one is my 5th highest ranked photo. |
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07/29/2004 11:01:25 PM · #4 |
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07/29/2004 11:15:45 PM · #5 |
(2) Clamp-on work lights ($3.50 Ea. Biglots!) w/150W Incandescent spot (white) bulb in each.
Bounced my 420EX Flash off the wall to the left.
After this shot I did go to home depot and grab a 500W x2 Halogen unit which does ok, but I do keep going back to my Biglots! clamp-ons they seem to be a little more versatile.
If I had it all to do again, I would just go ahead and get a softbox setup and be done with it.
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07/29/2004 11:20:31 PM · #6 |
Home Depot halogen shop light bounced against flipchart to provide indirect light.
Dave
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07/29/2004 11:37:07 PM · #7 |
Home Depot and BnQ et.al. Do a large range of lights, from the didy bed side lamps to the almost industrial flouds one sees on a motorway road works.
They are sooooo much cheaper than a flash and fly light set up that tends to be used by photographers... however they have a few pluses and minuses.
The bigest minus has to be the heat... white balance and that sort of thing can be sorted if you have a manual WB or can frig it in Photoshop; but the heat from a few high wattage lights can be quite intimidating, also as it is a constant "bright light" can cause people to squint all the time in the same way that bright sun light does.
The bigest plus has to be the fact that even the most causal observer can see where the shaddows are falling, where the glints and high lights are, if there is (with people) a good or bad eye spark [the little pin prick of light that pulls you towards the eyes due to its refelection]
Using flash or strobes (depending on country terms) is a little like playing pool or snooker... you have to visualise in your head where the bounce of light is going to go, to see in your head if its going to bounce of a shiny surface or end up blasting off some crome or silver in the back ground to the subject.
This is one of the reasons I use flash heads with a lowish wattage fly light... the fly light shows me where the light is going and also where the flash may escape the brolly or screen or soft box, but is low enough that the subject isnt melting or squinting under the intense and constant light.
Digital has definatly improved the ease of use of flashes as you can take a couple of "testers" just to check the lighting and camera manual settings (av & tv) as its usually impossable to let the camera to work things out as most cannot meter for flashes unless you go for an expensive TTL master and TTL slave set up.
I ahve noticed that I use my camera as both a "polaroid" and a true film camera in any given studio shoot in the same way MF users swap backs to test after metering then change to the real film.
YMMV,
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07/29/2004 11:39:19 PM · #8 |
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07/30/2004 12:01:02 AM · #9 |
Pretty interesting idea. I could definetly see these work lights heating up your room/subject pretty quickly. :) You'd also want to make sure your mounted umbrella/softbox is far enough from the lamp that it doesn't overheat. |
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