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02/27/2012 12:10:57 PM · #1 |
Need some advice please if anyone is so inclined...
I am trying to take my photography to new levels and have recently begun challenging myself to get out of my comfort zone and really make the most of my camera. I typically do product shots for my side business, so indoor photography with studio lights, I'm pretty good at, just from trial and error alone. However, my real interest lies in landscape and nature photography. I have been reading a ton of reference books and looking online but I need to just confirm some stuff with some photographers to make sure I am on the right path.
I use a Nikon D90 and I have a Sigma 10-20mm which I would like to use for landscape photography. I'm investing in a much better tripod (that will be another thread) and right now I am just trying to determine what filters I want to purchase. Currently I have a 72mm Hoya polarizer I use with my Nikon 18-200mm, I know I could buy a step up ring to 82mm but am I correct in thinking that this may cause some vignetting on the wide lens? Would I be better to just buy a 82mm polarizer?
For neutral density filters, solids in particular, I want to buy some to experiment with. I think like a lot of new photographers I want to work with motion blur, specifically water (I live in the Great lakes region) I know I could go with the Cokin P holder (wide angle) and buy some cheaper resin filters. I've kinda eliminated the Cokin ones because of the colour cast and was thinking of trying the Hitech ones. I also realize the Cokin wide angle holder will not allow me to stack and I am not sue how much of a drawback this will be for my future needs. Is this a reasonable solution to experiment with and use as a learning tool?
My other option was to maybe jump the gun and go for a more expensive Singh-Rays Vari-ND Variable Neutral Density Filter in an 82mm so that I have basically purchased all the ND solids I would need in one shot. I am concerned about vignetting of course. I'm also wondering if I step down from 82mm to 72mm so I can use it on my 18-200mm lens, will that cause issues? I haven't entirely grasped the stepping up, stepping down thing yet.
And just for a third confusing option, I realize I could buy much more expensive Lee glass filters, I'm just not sure if I am really getting ahead of myself here cost wise.
Then of course there are the graduated ND filters. Again, I have kinda realize I need to not buy screw in ones, which are impossible to adjust, so I was thinking of buying ones to fit the Cokin P holder. But which ones are a good choice, without totally breaking the bank? I also realize I could do post processing to get the same effect by combining multiple images, but I'm not sure if that route is the ideal one. I'm ok in Photoshop (I have CS5 for my Mac) and I am a really quick study with software so I don't worry about learning it well, I just don't know if I want better in-camera pictures, or I should expect to post process a lot (as opposed to basic stuff most people do)
Obviously I have lots of questions and all the information is a little overwhelming. I am taking a basic photography course right now, but for the most part we aren't covering these topics as they are considered a bit more advanced. (It's a short course) I'm loving experimenting and trying all these new things, but I also can't just randomly afford to buy all sorts of different filters. I don't know any local (to me) photographers, so I am appealing to your guys for some advice!
Sorry for the long thread. I am really excited to just shoot and I am doing that now, but I want to try some stuff that just isn't possible with my current setup. Oh I also have the opportunity to take a lot of plant photography (I work in IT at a plant nursery so have unlimited access to 1000's of plants) so I may try my hand at some macro photography as well. I have a 60mm micro lens that I use for product shots, that I will use for macro work as well.
Message edited by author 2012-02-27 12:13:11. |
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02/27/2012 01:51:48 PM · #2 |
For landscape shots I think you would get more use/value from the graduated ND filter than from the solid ones, which are mostly used to do stuff like blur flowing water.
You can also achieve 2-4 stops of exposure adjustment by stacking two polarizers (one circular, one linear I'm told) and rotating them relative to each other; here are a couple of examples of that:
Resized originals:   Edited:  |
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02/27/2012 02:02:22 PM · #3 |
Any two polarizers will work as an adjustable ND, but you will cut light by about 3 1/2 to 4 stops with it set to it's lightest adjustment. For 2 stops, just use one polarizer.
One advantage of a ND is that you can use it to shoot wide open in bright light to get shallow depth of field if you want to do so.
The grad ND that slide, the Cokin system type are best if you have time to set up the shots.
The screw on ones work too if you are shooting "on the move" or have very little time. Vertical adjustment with the fixed screw on type is done by shooting wide, and putting the gradient where you want it and later cropping the photo to get composition. It cuts back on resolution, but allows you to shoot on the fly, like when you are traveling with someone.
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02/27/2012 02:06:08 PM · #4 |
Originally posted by MelonMusketeer:
Any two polarizers will work as an adjustable ND, but you will cut light by about 3 1/2 to 4 stops with it set to it's lightest adjustment. For 2 stops, just use one polarizer. |
I didn''t think they had quite that much effect, but I haven't made any careful measurements either; I thought a circular polarizer alone lengthened the exposure by about one stop.
Originally posted by MelonMusketeer:
One advantage of a ND is that you can use it to shoot wide open in bright light to get shallow depth of field if you want to do so. |
Excellent point.
Message edited by author 2012-02-27 14:06:40. |
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