|
| Author | Thread |
|
|
05/16/2005 10:54:09 AM · #26 |
Originally posted by legalbeagle:
On P mode you have almost no control over the settings - that is the "fully automatic" mode. So you will not be able to use the settings you want. |
Ah, no, P is the "semi automatic" mode. The green square is the fully automatic mode, and from your descriptions below, I'm pretty sure you have the two confused.
Originally posted by legalbeagle:
In P mode the camera will almost certainly have popped the flash for your dusk pictures (probably not what you wanted). |
Actually, P mode will not automatically pop the flash at all. Only the fully automatic modes do this. Also, P mode automatically sets the aperture and speed the very first time you half-press the shutter button, but otherwise behaves exactly the same way Av mode does: the top wheel adjusts aperture, with shutter speed being set automatically from that, and the thumb wheel adjusts exposure by adjusting the shutter speed alone.
Originally posted by legalbeagle:
If you want flash in Av, Tv or M modes, press the flash button to access. |
... or P mode.
|
|
|
|
05/16/2005 11:05:43 AM · #27 |
yup - sorry - "P" mode sets lots of things, but not the flash. My forgetfulness. It is next to the green square. Which is no excuse I know, but it's all I got...
|
|
|
|
05/16/2005 11:46:08 AM · #28 |
Originally posted by legalbeagle:
Originally posted by roadrunner:
does anybody else have LOTS of trouble with the settings??... i mean if i try and take a photo on dusk, and use the P mode, it won't let me use what i want, so i go to the M mode and it's even worse, i can get one setting right , but then the other one won't budge.... has anyone found a great website explaining how to use these features properly??.. i know it's only me, but geez..... i am really starting to hate this camera.... |
...
I highly recommend either Av or Tv mode. In particular, Av will allow you to adjust the aperture and let the camera automatically meter for the shutter speed, and set that for you automatically. If you enable the thumbwheel (as above), you can very quickly dial in over or underexposure away from the camera metering levels (though don't forget as I always do to reset the under/over exposure meter once you are done!). With Av Mode you will rarely exceed the capabilities of the camera and lens, and consistently take photos that are properly exposed (or at least within salvageable distance).
... |
I second what legalbeagle stated and go as far to say start in and learn to use Av Mode first... You will find that almost 2/3's of your (creative) shots can be taken there. I use Tv mode for Night and/or low light situations where the cam can't figure out what I want to do, or high light situations where I want to slow action down.
Another must learn (dSLR) is Exposure Compensation...I had a site marked that had excellent example on using 20D but lost it...Will find and post link later...
...but I did run across this excellent site for using pretty much the entire canon line from the P&Sers to High End dSLRs...
Don't know if any have come across this site yet but Jim Doty puts things in simple terms and has some really great info... Click the tips link for controls and how to get the most of your 20D.
Andy
ED: As I was...Click the Digital link for using the 20D and others.
Message edited by author 2005-05-16 11:47:51. |
|
|
|
05/16/2005 02:27:06 PM · #29 |
Originally posted by BobsterLobster:
I noticed in another thread that you were using a 105mm macro lens for candid portraits...
doesn't sound like much fun to me, this lens is notoriously slow at focusing, by the time I'd have achieved focus lock, the subject would be half a mile away. What other lenses are you using? |
I don't use just one lens all the time. The other day I took the 105 mm macro out for the day. A day of experimentation.
So I guess I'm in experimenting mode right now.
I use my kit lens frequently but most often I've been using my 50 mm f/1.8 to get pix of the kids.
|
|
|
|
05/16/2005 06:35:23 PM · #30 |
Originally posted by Zed Pobre:
Originally posted by legalbeagle:
On P mode you have almost no control over the settings - that is the "fully automatic" mode. So you will not be able to use the settings you want. |
Ah, no, P is the "semi automatic" mode. The green square is the fully automatic mode, and from your descriptions below, I'm pretty sure you have the two confused.
Originally posted by legalbeagle:
In P mode the camera will almost certainly have popped the flash for your dusk pictures (probably not what you wanted). |
Actually, P mode will not automatically pop the flash at all. Only the fully automatic modes do this. Also, P mode automatically sets the aperture and speed the very first time you half-press the shutter button, but otherwise behaves exactly the same way Av mode does: the top wheel adjusts aperture, with shutter speed being set automatically from that, and the thumb wheel adjusts exposure by adjusting the shutter speed alone.
Originally posted by legalbeagle:
If you want flash in Av, Tv or M modes, press the flash button to access. |
... or P mode. |
thanks everybody.. i knew what legalbeagle meant, so that was cool... everything seemed to just click last night..... thanks... |
|
|
|
05/16/2005 06:49:17 PM · #31 |
Originally posted by Kavey:
Definitely worth remembering that!
Many of the images created by the "greats" in traditional film photograpy were not printed "straight out of the camera" as it were - a LOT of work was done in the darkroom to realise the vision. Ansel Adams is an oft (and probably over) used example but a good one to use as people often assume his prints represent what he captured on film exactly. |
Kavey, you've hit on a great point but your opinion is somewhat, but not totally, true. I'm just going to expand on this idea if you don't mind. :)
In order to create his vision, Ansel and any other great photographer REQUIRES a correct negative. There is no way that Ansel made the point of just capturing certain things and editing to the extreme in order to get his amazing prints. I just bought "The Negative" by Ansel Adams, and looking forward to reading it. Think about the Zone System and his pre-visualization. Even before the print and even before actually capturing the shot! he attempted and succeeded at getting "exactly" what he wanted from the negative and as a result, he obtained "exactly" what he wanted from the final print. That is an amazing feat that every photographer worth his/her salt should attempt to accomplish.
A photographer MUST have a great negative to obtain a great print. I'm sure you understand that Kavey, but it just wasn't put completely that way in your thoughts, in my opinion, so I wanted to expand. :)
-Nick
Message edited by author 2005-05-16 18:56:17. |
|
|
|
Current Server Time: 04/18/2025 06:51:07 AM  |
Home -
Challenges -
Community -
League -
Photos -
Cameras -
Lenses -
Learn -
Help -
Terms of Use -
Privacy -
Top ^
DPChallenge, and website content and design, Copyright © 2001-2025 Challenging Technologies, LLC.
All digital photo copyrights belong to the photographers and may not be used without permission.
Current Server Time: 04/18/2025 06:51:07 AM EDT.
|
