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12/23/2005 10:14:55 AM · #1 |
I have a studio setup in my basement already but am using continuous lighting and hate it. I have decided to invest in strobes and am pretty sure I will buy the alienbees that everyone raves about.
Could I get some help on what I need to purchase. I have a cannon rebel and need to know what to get so it can talk to the strobes. Also I already have a couple umbrellas and 2 light stands. I mainly use white backdrop and I like it really white.
I will be taking mostly children photos, small families, senior photos, etc. I am not worried about being really creative light wise, I just want something basic.
I have about a $600ish budget. I am trying to finalize the budget in the next couple days.
Any help would be appreciated!!!!
www.pbase.com/jayme |
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12/23/2005 10:20:21 AM · #2 |
Alien bees will flash when they detect your camera's flash, but to be sure you get what you want when you want it (flash-wise), you'll need one sync chord. Sync one light to your camera and it can trigger the other light(s).
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12/23/2005 10:35:51 AM · #3 |
I don't think the rebel has a place to plug the cord into. (am I right?) It looks like the AB's come with a sync cord but I need something else.
Is this what I need:
Nikon AS-15 Sync Terminal Adapter (Hot Shoe to PC)
//www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=37086&is=REG&addedTroughType=search
Is the above okay to use with the rebel?? or do I need something differnt? |
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12/23/2005 11:19:51 AM · #4 |
Yes, teh rebel lacks a sync cord, but youhave to trigger the flashed shomehow - you have 3 options. get a hotshow to PC adapter ($10 at ritz camera stores) or get a wein safesync to be sure you don't bluw up your camera from too high a sync trigger voltage (has to be under 6v for a rebel). Most strobes come with an optical trigger, so one flash makes them all flash. so you could use an on camera flash (i do this and the pics are fine, not artistic lighting wise though). The best is a Pocket Wizard and just go wireless - but $300-400 is the cost. There are really cheap ones on ebay - avoid them IMO.
Flashes:
Alien Bees are fine. Another option is Paterson Interfit Stellar - adorama and b&h carry them. $499 gets you a 2 light 300ws (per light) set with 5 stop adjustment, 150w modeling light, umbrellas, softboxes, stands and a carry case. they have more powerful and less powerfule (150ws) stobes as well.
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12/23/2005 12:17:12 PM · #5 |
| I have the rebel xt and also bought alienbee lights. I went to ritz and bought the hotshoe to pc sync adapter and it worked fine. Alienbees sells them for 14.95 if you look under..chords, tubes, and lamps. |
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12/23/2005 03:18:24 PM · #6 |
The Hot-Shoe to PC adaptor that Alien Bees sells has gotten poor reviews from some people here. It has been said that it doesn't lock to the shoe well and slides out easily.
I bought the Nikon version (AS-15) from B&H because I couldn't get one locally, and the prices are all about the same, no matter what brand you get or where you get it. My wife has the 350D (Rebel XT) and it works just fine on her camera.
Oh, and my pair of B400s throw plenty of light for a home studio. Get yourself a pair of them and you'll have $100 left over for gells, barn doors or something.
Another accessory you'll really want is a flash meter. Your Rebel won't be able to set the exposure for you because it won't know how much light is coming from the strobes. You'll need to do all your shooting in Manual mode. The nice thing about digital is that you can just use trial and error to get what you want. I got really frustrated with that though, so I bought a flash meter. I got the Sekonic Flashmate 308S, for $160. Rather no-frills, but does the job just fine.
Good luck! |
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12/23/2005 03:20:02 PM · #7 |
My wife and I just bought a setup on e-bay... lemme get the link, brb.
//cgi.ebay.com/3-studio-strobe-flash-2-softbox-3-backdrops-IR-trig-etc_W0QQitemZ7572791402QQcategoryZ107919QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
ed - oh, and it was only $299 and include 3 BG's, 3 strobes, softbox, umbrella, hairlight, synch cords, wireless synch adapter and more.
Message edited by author 2005-12-23 15:23:20.
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12/23/2005 03:35:46 PM · #8 |
I will be VERY interested in seeing how those work out for you...
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12/23/2005 03:41:20 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by Ombra_foto:
I will be VERY interested in seeing how those work out for you... |
Yeah, we're nervous, but is a reuptable seller and another DPC'r recommended them to us because they know we're looking and on an ultra-tight budget.
We shall see :o)
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12/23/2005 03:45:49 PM · #10 |
I almost went for that same set about 6 months ago when I was shopping. I decided to scrounge and save for the ABs... my dad had a saying:
"You know what you get when you buy a 5 dollar diamond? A 5 dollar diamond."
I haven't heard anything bad about those either, I did a lot of net research and everything I read was ambivilent... they're fine, but nothing special.
Please either update this thread or start a new one when you recieve them, I'd be interested in hearing about them too.
---Andrew |
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12/23/2005 03:52:50 PM · #11 |
Originally posted by Prof_Fate:
Yes, teh rebel lacks a sync cord, but youhave to trigger the flashed shomehow - you have 3 options. get a hotshow to PC adapter ($10 at ritz camera stores) or get a wein safesync to be sure you don't bluw up your camera from too high a sync trigger voltage (has to be under 6v for a rebel). Most strobes come with an optical trigger, so one flash makes them all flash. so you could use an on camera flash (i do this and the pics are fine, not artistic lighting wise though). The best is a Pocket Wizard and just go wireless - but $300-400 is the cost. There are really cheap ones on ebay - avoid them IMO.
Flashes:
Alien Bees are fine. Another option is Paterson Interfit Stellar - adorama and b&h carry them. $499 gets you a 2 light 300ws (per light) set with 5 stop adjustment, 150w modeling light, umbrellas, softboxes, stands and a carry case. they have more powerful and less powerfule (150ws) stobes as well. |
the ebay radio slaves hes reffering to really kinda suck indoors, with all the interference, but if for some reason youre shooting primarily outdoors (like me with skateboarding and vivitar 285 flashes) they work extremely well. except when someone with a GSM phone receieves a call near them, then they go nuts. haha
BTW Prof_Fate, the receiever works excellent, thanks.
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12/23/2005 03:57:43 PM · #12 |
Originally posted by livitup:
I almost went for that same set about 6 months ago when I was shopping. I decided to scrounge and save for the ABs... my dad had a saying:
"You know what you get when you buy a 5 dollar diamond? A 5 dollar diamond."
I haven't heard anything bad about those either, I did a lot of net research and everything I read was ambivilent... they're fine, but nothing special.
Please either update this thread or start a new one when you recieve them, I'd be interested in hearing about them too.
---Andrew |
yeah, I'll set up some tests, but since I don't have access to AB's or anything, it's not like I can do a comparison.
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12/23/2005 04:08:33 PM · #13 |
Originally posted by Ombra_foto:
I will be VERY interested in seeing how those work out for you... |
I was the DPC'er who recommended this set and I'll explain why:
I know Wave and brizmama are on a very very tight budget. For their $300, they are getting:
* 2 160 W/S stepless adjustable power strobes
* 1 36 w/S hairlight
* 2 20x28" softboxes
* Wireless transmitter
* 32" silver/gold reflector
* barndoors
* 4 color gels
* honeycomb
* 2 carry bags
* 10x20" backdrop
* 2 small backdrops (white and black solids)
* 34" umbrella
* 2 sync cords
* 3 6'3 lightstands
Let's pretend for the sake of argument that eventually Steve and Erin decide these lights aren't powerful enough.
For $300 they will then have 3 used lights, 3 lightstands, an umbrella, softboxes, a 10x20" backdrop, gels, carry bags, reflector AND some lights to use for now. The stuff they will keep is worth $300! As a starter kit for someone who can't blow $600 today, this is worth it.
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12/23/2005 04:22:56 PM · #14 |
Mavrik,
I agree with you completley! The accessories alone would seem to be worth it. And for a photog on a budget this seems like a good starter set. I'm just suspicious by nature, and for me it was worth it to eat ramen noodles for a few weeks to get an AB kit.
I don't mean to say that this set is a bad buy or that Wave is stupid for trying. I was just trying to explain my rationale behind getting an AB setup. |
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12/23/2005 04:27:22 PM · #15 |
Originally posted by livitup:
I don't mean to say that this set is a bad buy or that Wave is stupid for trying. I was just trying to explain my rationale behind getting an AB setup. |
:) I don't disagree with you about AB being great lights either - I love my Studiomax II set of Photogenics as well and wouldn't give them up. I just wanted to clarify why anyone would recommend this set. :)
I can't wait to see how it works too!
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12/23/2005 04:49:47 PM · #16 |
Sorry, I was actually working for a change.
Yeah, what Matt said.
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12/23/2005 05:15:26 PM · #17 |
Originally posted by mavrik:
Let's pretend for the sake of argument that eventually Steve and Erin decide these lights aren't powerful enough.
For $300 they will then have 3 used lights, 3 lightstands, an umbrella, softboxes, a 10x20" backdrop, gels, carry bags, reflector AND some lights to use for now. The stuff they will keep is worth $300! As a starter kit for someone who can't blow $600 today, this is worth it. |
Being on a pension, with limited funds, I'll never be able to afford the "perfect" set up, and I'm not worried about it. I just want a workable set up when I'm ready...
I'm not even ready for that yet... Worklights for now...
And a lot more learning...
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12/23/2005 05:38:56 PM · #18 |
The suggestion on the $300 setup isn't for me. I already have the light stands, backdrops, etc... I am just looking for the units. I already did the cheap way now I am trying to upgrade.
Really what I need to know now is how many lights do I need for what I am doing (see 1st post). I seen a photo someone did on here with a white backdrop and he said he used one light and it was a great photo with the coloring of the person great and the background was very white. That's what I want.
I don't think I can use a normal backlight with a hood for the backdrop since I don't take alot of head shots. I have kids crawling around so I can't stick a light behind them, it has to be to the side. So do I need two to light the backdrop and one on the subject or what?? |
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12/23/2005 05:40:04 PM · #19 |
Originally posted by Ombra_foto:
Being on a pension, with limited funds, I'll never be able to afford the "perfect" set up, and I'm not worried about it. I just want a workable set up when I'm ready...
I'm not even ready for that yet... Worklights for now...
And a lot more learning... |
I'll get back to you on the setup, and we just returned the set of worklights today, unopened, to Sears to help pay back into the funds. rest is coming from our first portrait earnings (Christmas cards for our pastors that they insisted on paying for, it was a pittance anyways, as at even a $1 rate, 400 4x6's would be $400) and the bulk will be from Savings Bonds, which we figure was a worthy cause to cash in before full maturity... that's just for any of you lookin at me whining about wanting a dSLR and then seeing me drop $300 on lights.
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12/23/2005 05:53:37 PM · #20 |
You might try finding that picture agian, did you add it to your favorites? I'd PM the photog and aske them how they set up.
I'd still get something like the setup that I just ordered if I were you for flexibility, at least the lights portion, if not all the other stuff.
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12/24/2005 11:01:40 PM · #21 |
Mugshot,
One light, when placed directly in front of the subject, tends to produce harsh and "flat" pictures, making everything look really 2 dimensional. There will be very little percieved distance or depth between the subject and the background. You can decide if that's OK for you or not. If you're doing stock/product photography of 'things' then it would probably be fine. If you're doing people, animals, flowers, etc. then probably not.
If you move your single light to either direction you will generally produce photos with more depth, but you introduce shadows, generally fairly severe ones. The severity will depend on the angle that you move the light to. The more angle, the more depth, and the more shadow.
It is for this reason that most photographers use at least two lights, at about 45 degrees off the front of the subject. Each light cancels out the shadows of the other, and the angle produces 'pleasing' definition between the background and the subject.
Professional portrait photographers typically add a third light, above the subject. It's called a hair light, and it is generally a very low power light that causes the subject's hair to "glow."
So the end point of all of this is, that you need as many lights as you need. If the type of photos you are taking don't look bad with one, straight on light, then only use one light. You may want to experiment with halogen work lights from Home Depot to see the effect of lighting, and then switch to strobes for quality and quantity.
Message edited by author 2005-12-25 09:06:43.
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12/24/2005 11:44:46 PM · #22 |
A friend got a set of Yake strobes off ebay, 3 lights, 3 stands, 2 softboxes for $250 or so and a carrying case. He is selling them so i went to take a look - not to bad, performance wise. All hsve optical and PC triggers, 75w halogen modeling lights, full and 1/2 power.
For a hobbyist i think they'd be fine. I however aspire to more so more durablity and more power are in order. The Stellar kit i mentioned below is nice from what i hear over at FM from pros who use them. A bit heavier to move about than ABs,but less cost and you get a softbox even though it is small.
Gimme 6 weeks and i'll post a review.
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02/01/2006 01:33:33 PM · #23 |
How is this lighting equipment going? Anyone purchase anything inexpensive that they would like to highly recommend? I'm on the market for something simple and can't decide what to get. It will be a start of baby and senior pictures.
Thanks!
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10/09/2006 03:51:06 PM · #24 |
my 2-bits:
I use the radio triggers sold on ebay with 4 dipswitches. I only ever run 2 different channels, but they seem to work very well... the batteries in the senders last for ever. occaisionally, they go a little haywire, and will trigger off of someone's cell phone (or sunspots... who knows???) THis is a bonus, as it gives your wedding dancers a free strobe-light show. :-P But seriously, they're very compact, and have a decent range. I was in a huge church this weekend, and the flash I left by the alter was reliably triggered by me in the balcony -- atleast 200 feet away. These work great on the rebel or especially the 20d, plugged into the sync port, so you can use the top shoe for a toy-canon 580 (helps with focus) BEst part of the remotes, is you can buy ten for the price of one pocket wizard transceiver, do all kinds of cool stuff with 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th lights, and still have backups. Although a these radios are a little goofy, I actually trust my on-camera metz to the radios... it's as good as a standard POC sync cord, I figure... maybe better when you consider the cords would wear out quickly (I use a flash bracket). I'm actually thinking of mounting the sender in the spare battery compartment on the 20D verti-grip, I'll need to remove the guts from the sender's plastic housing to make it fit.
I just got a yake aikiphoto 200WS light... to test. Seems a little (plenty)shy of 200WS, but plently well built (tank like, really), and very consistent exposures. ran it in a tent-wedding this weekend, (next to an old white-lighning 10K) and all shots in the lit area were consistantly f8@400ISO! -- Rock On! No fan, but it seemed to run cool enough that it didn't set the tent on fire. pro-looks too -- the thing is the size of a 1000ws unit, prolly why it runs cool without a fan!
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10/09/2006 10:57:05 PM · #25 |
Originally posted by livitup:
Mugshot,
One light, when placed directly in front of the subject, tends to produce harsh and "flat" pictures, making everything look really 2 dimensional. There will be very little percieved distance or depth between the subject and the background. You can decide if that's OK for you or not. If you're doing stock/product photography of 'things' then it would probably be fine. If you're doing people, animals, flowers, etc. then probably not.
If you move your single light to either direction you will generally produce photos with more depth, but you introduce shadows, generally fairly severe ones. The severity will depend on the angle that you move the light to. The more angle, the more depth, and the more shadow.
It is for this reason that most photographers use at least two lights, at about 45 degrees off the front of the subject. Each light cancels out the shadows of the other, and the angle produces 'pleasing' definition between the background and the subject.
Professional portrait photographers typically add a third light, above the subject. It's called a hair light, and it is generally a very low power light that causes the subject's hair to "glow."
So the end point of all of this is, that you need as many lights as you need. If the type of photos you are taking don't look bad with one, straight on light, then only use one light. You may want to experiment with halogen work lights from Home Depot to see the effect of lighting, and then switch to strobes for quality and quantity. |
Woah, lighting is too complex to make a generalization like that. One light setups are perfectly viable for pleasing results and critical work. Having more is nice, but you really need to think about what you're trying to accomplish with that much.
Some examples of single light setups.
 
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