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07/13/2008 06:27:49 PM · #1 |
I've tried it for a while but I struggle with using my 'flash' 'properly'. I was wondering if this DVD would be helpful for me with my 430EX. Has anybody got this and what do they think of it?
I've looked at sites like Strobist but I seem to be missing something fundamental. It seems simple enough but putting it into practice is proving troublesome.
Message edited by author 2008-07-13 21:59:36. |
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07/13/2008 06:36:34 PM · #2 |
Post a few pics with the problem. I'm sure that someone here will know exactly what is not right, as well as how to fix it.
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07/13/2008 06:58:54 PM · #3 |
Originally posted by MelonMusketeer:
Post a few pics with the problem. I'm sure that someone here will know exactly what is not right, as well as how to fix it. |
It's not a specific problem it's really just that I don't seem to "understand" the 'flash'. |
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07/13/2008 09:59:02 PM · #4 |
accidental post ;)
Message edited by author 2008-07-13 21:59:23. |
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07/13/2008 10:22:26 PM · #5 |
Read along at strobist.com, and check out garyfong's website. Free and good places to learn 'flash' use.
Edit, sorry, you've tried strobist. OK, come to Florida and you can follow me around for a few outdoor sessions. :D
Message edited by author 2008-07-13 22:23:52.
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07/13/2008 11:06:43 PM · #6 |
Originally posted by Nuzzer:
It's not a specific problem it's really just that I don't seem to "understand" the 'flash'. |
Maybe this link will help and this. |
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07/13/2008 11:31:47 PM · #7 |
There are some basics...on camera of off, eTTL or not, direct or not.
eTTL the camera does the thinking just like any metering it does for exposure. Canon has several modes depending on how you have your camera set - P mode makes the assumption you want the 'flash' to be the main light, so the BG may go dark. Av and Tv mode try to expose for the ambient light and 'flash' will act as fill light - until it gets 'so' dark and then it becomes a main light again. You can't shoot with a shutter speed faster than 1/250 second so if your trying to use the 'flash' as fill light on a bright day you will either need an ND filter on the lens or shoot at F11 or so.
Direct is just that - pointed directly at the subject. It give the most light, but can cause red-eye and hard shadows behind the subject. Bounced means just that - you turn the 'flash' head to bounce the light off of something - wall, ceiling, or bounce card, etc. Modifiers such as the lightsphere, demb, omnibounce will all diffuse the light in some fashion to reduse the hard shadow/direct 'flash' look. Each works well if used according to their instructions, and all pretty much eat 2 stops of light - youre 430 can be on the weak side as it is so bounceing, etc might be an issue.
Shoot at ISO 800 - i've read that's what canon's camera's are designed to work best at with 'flash'. Higher ISO means you'll need to add less 'flash' and that will make things work better and faster.
To move the 'flash' off camera you'll need eiher a master on the camera to trigger it via canon's wireless setup or their off-shoe cord (about 2 or 3 feet long max) or you can get a hot shoe adapter (to adapt the 'flash' hot shoe to a standard PC connector) and then you can use a long PC cord or Pocket wizard or similar to trigger the 'flash' remotely.
If you double the distance from 'flash' to subject you need FOUR times as much light from the 'flash' to get the same exposure at the subject - so you kind of gotta be close - like under 15 feet for most things.
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07/14/2008 07:22:55 AM · #8 |
I found this tutorial very helpful for 'flash' usage (Planet Neil). Another hint is that the farther away you are, the more you need to bump the ISO to get enough light.
I also use one of these and love it (DIY 'Flash' Diffuser}. I've downsized mine by a an inch or so on each side to make it easier to carry in my camera case.
Tim |
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07/14/2008 07:30:54 AM · #9 |
wow I totally misunderstood the thread title. ;) |
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07/14/2008 02:56:14 PM · #10 |
| Thanks for the replies. The Planet Neil website looks like it is just right for me. |
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07/14/2008 03:13:13 PM · #11 |
Originally posted by idnic:
Read along at strobist.com, and check out garyfong's website. Free and good places to learn 'flash' use.
Edit, sorry, you've tried strobist. OK, come to Florida and you can follow me around for a few outdoor sessions. :D |
if i come to fla will you 'flash' me too? |
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07/14/2008 03:37:51 PM · #12 |
Originally posted by Nuzzer:
Originally posted by MelonMusketeer:
Post a few pics with the problem. I'm sure that someone here will know exactly what is not right, as well as how to fix it. |
It's not a specific problem it's really just that I don't seem to "understand" the 'flash'. |
FWIW - understanding 'flash' may differ from 'understanding' a lot of other things about cameras, because it is a lot less intuitive. The light's not there until you press the button and take the picture, so it's all in the set-up. Praise be for digital cameras and instant review, eh? |
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07/14/2008 03:47:10 PM · #13 |
Originally posted by Prof_Fate:
You can't shoot with a shutter speed faster than 1/250 second |
yes you can
Originally posted by Prof_Fate:
Shoot at ISO 800 |
? |
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07/15/2008 09:16:23 AM · #14 |
Originally posted by hopper:
Originally posted by Prof_Fate:
You can't shoot with a shutter speed faster than 1/250 second |
yes you can
Originally posted by Prof_Fate:
Shoot at ISO 800 |
? |
Not with a Canon SLR. In HSS mode yes, but you get very little light out of the 'flash' and it's hard on teh batts and 'flash' - and I don't know that the 430 has that mode anyway. You can't do it with studio 'flash'. I doubt you can do it with off-camera 'flash' in manual mode - not sure there is a manual/HSS combo mode. The proper solution is to put an ND filter on the lens to get the shutter speed under 1/250. That way the 'flash' works in a normal mode and it's a lot more controllable.
Canon's lit says eTTL works best with the camera set at ISO800 for indoor work. The higher the ISO on the camera the more ambient light is captured and less 'flash' is needed - this give a more natural look to the image and lets the 'flash' recycle faster as it's not working as hard.
Message edited by author 2008-07-15 09:17:27.
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07/15/2008 09:42:53 AM · #15 |
   
I own the 430ex 'flash' ... i shoot in HSS all the time. It all depends on your needs. Yes, if your in a studio, there's no reason to be shooting over 1/200 - but fill 'flash' frequently requires higher shutter speeds, and it works flawlessly. I shoot macros, candids, wildlife, outdoor portraits, etc all in Av mode with fill 'flash' at any shutter speed i want ... works every time - on camera and off. And the batteries work all day with no problems at all.
Regarding the ISO. Show me one single studio photographer anywhere on the planet that shoots 'flash' photography in a studio at ISO 800 and I'll happily apologize for questioning you.
(edit to add) - You most likely are talking about event photography (weddings, etc) regarding the ISO, that just clicked in head ... you should be more specific than just saying "indoor work".
Originally posted by Prof_Fate:
Originally posted by hopper:
Originally posted by Prof_Fate:
You can't shoot with a shutter speed faster than 1/250 second |
yes you can
Originally posted by Prof_Fate:
Shoot at ISO 800 |
? |
Not with a Canon SLR. In HSS mode yes, but you get very little light out of the 'flash' and it's hard on teh batts and 'flash' - and I don't know that the 430 has that mode anyway. You can't do it with studio 'flash'. I doubt you can do it with off-camera 'flash' in manual mode - not sure there is a manual/HSS combo mode. The proper solution is to put an ND filter on the lens to get the shutter speed under 1/250. That way the 'flash' works in a normal mode and it's a lot more controllable.
Canon's lit says eTTL works best with the camera set at ISO800 for indoor work. The higher the ISO on the camera the more ambient light is captured and less 'flash' is needed - this give a more natural look to the image and lets the 'flash' recycle faster as it's not working as hard. |
Message edited by author 2008-07-15 09:54:27. |
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