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DPChallenge Forums >> Hardware and Software >> Canon 24-105 F4 L IS on a T3i
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02/04/2012 08:47:05 AM · #1
Hi,

has anyone used the 24-105 in a APS-C body? I currently have a T3i and thinking about buy this lens.

Best regards,
Felipe
02/04/2012 09:39:54 AM · #2
I have mine on the 7D and rarely takes it off. Perfect lens with extraordinary colors and contrast. Stabilization works very well. You can not go wrong on this investment.

Edit to add: //www.dpchallenge.com/lens.php?LENS_ID=1232

Message edited by author 2012-02-04 09:41:27.
02/04/2012 10:52:05 AM · #3
I have recently upgraded EF-S 15-85 to EF 24-105 and so far I am very happy with it (my latest ribbon was taken with it). You have to remember that 24-105 becomes 38-168 on T3i. I have EF-S 10-22mm (great lens) for the wide angle. The missing 22 to 38mm has not bothered me yet.
02/04/2012 10:57:23 AM · #4
Originally posted by MargaretN:

...I have EF-S 10-22mm (great lens) for the wide angle. The missing 22 to 38mm has not bothered me yet.


isn't the 10-22 equivalent to 16-35 on an APS-C?

i have the 24-105, like the others have said, it's a fantastic lens with great image quality. the IS really helps since i'm a very unsteady shooter.
02/04/2012 10:58:07 AM · #5
Originally posted by MargaretN:

I have recently upgraded EF-S 15-85 to EF 24-105 and so far I am very happy with it (my latest ribbon was taken with it). You have to remember that 24-105 becomes 38-168 on T3i. I have EF-S 10-22mm (great lens) for the wide angle. The missing 22 to 38mm has not bothered me yet.


There's no "missing 22 to 38"; all that's missing is 23mm. You have one lens topping out at 22mm and the next one starting at 24mm.

R.
02/04/2012 11:04:50 AM · #6
As the Bear says.
02/04/2012 11:10:28 AM · #7
The 24-105 in my opinion is one of the best walk around lenses you can have. I used it all the time on my 40D and now my 5D MK II. You cannot go wrong purchasing this lens. Head over to the Canon POTN website if you want to save a little. Sometimes someone will buy the lens with the camera (kit) and already have that lens and not need it. I've seen new ones go for as low as $900. Good luck and happy shooting :)
02/04/2012 11:57:49 AM · #8
Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Originally posted by MargaretN:

I have recently upgraded EF-S 15-85 to EF 24-105 and so far I am very happy with it (my latest ribbon was taken with it). You have to remember that 24-105 becomes 38-168 on T3i. I have EF-S 10-22mm (great lens) for the wide angle. The missing 22 to 38mm has not bothered me yet.


There's no "missing 22 to 38"; all that's missing is 23mm. You have one lens topping out at 22mm and the next one starting at 24mm.

R.

NOW I am REALLY confused!! What on F...K does 1.6 crop mean?? The 10-22mm is EF-S, NOT EF, hence no crop involved on APS-C. 24-105mm is EF so why isn't crop involved???
02/04/2012 12:39:58 PM · #9
Originally posted by MargaretN:

Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Originally posted by MargaretN:

I have recently upgraded EF-S 15-85 to EF 24-105 and so far I am very happy with it (my latest ribbon was taken with it). You have to remember that 24-105 becomes 38-168 on T3i. I have EF-S 10-22mm (great lens) for the wide angle. The missing 22 to 38mm has not bothered me yet.


There's no "missing 22 to 38"; all that's missing is 23mm. You have one lens topping out at 22mm and the next one starting at 24mm.

R.

NOW I am REALLY confused!! What on F...K does 1.6 crop mean?? The 10-22mm is EF-S, NOT EF, hence no crop involved on APS-C. 24-105mm is EF so why isn't crop involved???


Here's a good place to read about the crop factor of digital cameras: //en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crop_factor.

I suppose it's how you look at the numbers. Without using the multiplier, you have 10-22mm and 24-105mm, which means you're only missing the 23mm portion. When you apply the 1.6 multiplier, you apply it to both lenses.

I have a FF camera, so whenever I think of crop bodies and lenses I always multiply by 1.6 to get the relative focal length to my camera. This helps me get an idea of what the lens is for (ie ultra wide, wide, telephoto, etc...) So for me, your lenses are 16-35mm and 38-168mm (multiplying by 1.6). So relative to a FF, you're only missing the 36-37mm part :)

Nick

Message edited by author 2012-02-04 19:48:17.
02/04/2012 01:10:24 PM · #10
used to think the efs lens where not affected by the crop but having compared my 17-85 on 20d to 16-35 on 5d wow
02/04/2012 03:08:10 PM · #11
Originally posted by Bear_Music:

Originally posted by MargaretN:

I have recently upgraded EF-S 15-85 to EF 24-105 and so far I am very happy with it (my latest ribbon was taken with it). You have to remember that 24-105 becomes 38-168 on T3i. I have EF-S 10-22mm (great lens) for the wide angle. The missing 22 to 38mm has not bothered me yet.


There's no "missing 22 to 38"; all that's missing is 23mm. You have one lens topping out at 22mm and the next one starting at 24mm.

R.


Just a heads up, I do miss that 23mm greatly.

:-)
02/04/2012 07:29:58 PM · #12
I must be really dumb because all explanations confused me even more! Does it mean that crop factor has nothing to do with focal lengths of the lenses?? I am planning to get 5D at some stage - what will be exactly the difference if I use 24-105 on T2i and 5D? Will the photos cover the same frame??
02/04/2012 07:40:39 PM · #13
the EF lenses project an image circle larger than the sensor so you are losing the edges that you would get from a EF lens. so if you use a 10-22 lens you aren't getting the edge of the image the lens will allow, you are only getting 16mm through 35mm worth, the rest of the image falls off the sensor the EF-s lenses still maintain the same focal lengths they are just made for crop bodies and if they mounted a FF body the image wouldn't cover the whole sensor.

i can see the confusion but really if they changed the description of the lens, for instance called the EF-S 15-85 a 24-136, if you mounted a EF lens you be all confused. by leaving them the way they are is easier.
02/04/2012 07:46:52 PM · #14
Originally posted by MargaretN:

I must be really dumb because all explanations confused me even more! Does it mean that crop factor has nothing to do with focal lengths of the lenses?? I am planning to get 5D at some stage - what will be exactly the difference if I use 24-105 on T2i and 5D? Will the photos cover the same frame??


On a T2i, the 24-105mm acts as if it has focal length 38-168. On the 5D the focal length is 24-105. So when you switch to fullframe, you will lose the 'extra' zoom that you were having on the T2i.

To given an example:
-we both stand in the same spot
-we both shoot at 24mm
-you use the 24-105 with your T2i
-I use the 24-015mm with my 5D

What happens: The picture I would get would be considered wide and contain a lot more of the scene. Your shot wouldn't be as wide as mine, and you wouldn't get as much of the scene around the edges. Your image would fit inside of the one I took, and too me, would look like you had cropped your image. In order for our shots to match, I would need to zoom into 38mm, or you would need to step back far enough (however, you wouldn't get as much wide distortion in the image).

Any less confused? The best way may be to think of a rectangle representing a FF scene, and a smaller rectangle that fits in the larger one as being the cropped scene.
' . substr('//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/80/Crop_Factor.JPG/220px-Crop_Factor.JPG', strrpos('//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/80/Crop_Factor.JPG/220px-Crop_Factor.JPG', '/') + 1) . '(*taken from the below wiki page)

Nick
02/04/2012 07:53:50 PM · #15
Originally posted by wolf:

Originally posted by MargaretN:

I must be really dumb because all explanations confused me even more! Does it mean that crop factor has nothing to do with focal lengths of the lenses?? I am planning to get 5D at some stage - what will be exactly the difference if I use 24-105 on T2i and 5D? Will the photos cover the same frame??


On a T2i, the 24-105mm acts as if it has focal length 38-168. On the 5D the focal length is 24-105. So when you switch to fullframe, you will lose the 'extra' zoom that you were having on the T2i.

To given an example:
-we both stand in the same spot
-we both shoot at 24mm
-you use the 24-105 with your T2i
-I use the 24-015mm with my 5D

What happens: The picture I would get would be considered wide and contain a lot more of the scene. Your shot wouldn't be as wide as mine, and you wouldn't get as much of the scene around the edges. Your image would fit inside of the one I took, and too me, would look like you had cropped your image. In order for our shots to match, I would need to zoom into 38mm, or you would need to step back far enough (however, you wouldn't get as much wide distortion in the image).

Any less confused? The best way may be to think of a rectangle representing a FF scene, and a smaller rectangle that fits in the larger one as being the cropped scene.
' . substr('//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/80/Crop_Factor.JPG/220px-Crop_Factor.JPG', strrpos('//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/80/Crop_Factor.JPG/220px-Crop_Factor.JPG', '/') + 1) . '(*taken from the below wiki page)

Nick

That's EXACTLY how I understood it! I will need to get a new zoom lens for 5D but will be OK with the lenses I have except for EF-S 10-22mm as it will not fit on EF. So what I said originally stands! 24-105mm is really 38-168mm on the Rebel.
02/04/2012 08:02:28 PM · #16
Yes, but you didn't do the same transformation to your 10-22mm.

Originally posted by MargaretN:

The missing 22 to 38mm has not bothered me yet.

Your 10-22mm on the Rebel is 16-35mm when compared to the 5D.

If you don't compare to the 5D, then you have 10-22mm and 24-105mm. If you do compare to the 5D, then you have 16-35mm and 38-168mm. You're only missing 1mm in between your lenses.
02/04/2012 11:13:02 PM · #17
Originally posted by wolf:

Yes, but you didn't do the same transformation to your 10-22mm.

Originally posted by MargaretN:

The missing 22 to 38mm has not bothered me yet.

Your 10-22mm on the Rebel is 16-35mm when compared to the 5D.

If you don't compare to the 5D, then you have 10-22mm and 24-105mm. If you do compare to the 5D, then you have 16-35mm and 38-168mm. You're only missing 1mm in between your lenses.

THANKS!! I GOT IT!! (finally ;) But 10-22mm won't work on 5D so I thought about it only in the context of 550D. So 10-22mm is a useless figure to me!
02/05/2012 12:15:07 AM · #18
I had a 24-105 for a while but my copy was terrible. I should have been sharp on a crop body as you are only using the centre of the lens but it was woeful. Only sharp in the centre.

I purchased the 15-85 which I find to be sharp wide open.

I have a wide angle lens but if I'm wanting to travel light I find I can get by with the 15mm offered on this lens and 85 on the long end is pretty decent also.

02/05/2012 12:27:30 AM · #19
I can tell the difference in quality even if 15-85 is a very decent lens. I sold mine on eBay, it sold at But It Now price within 5 hours. I was very surprised as I thought $600 will be a lot to get for it.
02/05/2012 03:52:06 PM · #20
Mind.Blown. I had no idea about this! >:O

Thanks for everyone taking the time to explain it.
02/05/2012 06:22:04 PM · #21
Thanks to every answer to my question ... I will save to buy one. ;)

I already have a Sigma 10-20 f4-5.6 HSM EX. The only boring thing is to exchange lenses.

Message edited by author 2012-02-05 18:24:47.
02/05/2012 06:41:54 PM · #22
Originally posted by docpjv:

I have mine on the 7D and rarely takes it off. Perfect lens with extraordinary colors and contrast. Stabilization works very well. You can not go wrong on this investment.


Really great photos!
02/29/2012 08:53:41 PM · #23
Arrived! It is really a fantastic lens. ;)
07/11/2013 09:51:26 PM · #24
Has anyone tried taking any astrophotography shots with the 24-105 on the T3i? If so, can you post an example. I'm considering getting this lens for my camera.

I know the sensor on the camera is what controls the noise for long exposures and high ISO, but a lot of people have been telling me that if I get this lens, there will be less noise because of the increased light transmission through the glass. Can anyone verify that?
07/11/2013 11:55:57 PM · #25
With an F4 lens for astro photography i'd be concerned about how high you would have to push the ISO to keep the stars sharp. A 25 or 30 sec exposure at F4 you're probably looking at ISO 2500-3200...i have a 5D MK III and i know even on that camera that the grain is a little unbearable for night stuff at those levels...and at 24mm you still might get some motion at 25 secs which means you need to pump the ISO even higher...now if you're interested in only doing trails...then it's all good :)

Originally posted by nbenadom:

Has anyone tried taking any astrophotography shots with the 24-105 on the T3i? If so, can you post an example. I'm considering getting this lens for my camera.

I know the sensor on the camera is what controls the noise for long exposures and high ISO, but a lot of people have been telling me that if I get this lens, there will be less noise because of the increased light transmission through the glass. Can anyone verify that?
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