DPChallenge: A Digital Photography Contest You are not logged in. (log in or register
 

DPChallenge Forums >> Tips, Tricks, and Q&A >> Help with Action Photos
Pages:  
Showing posts 1 - 25 of 30, (reverse)
AuthorThread
02/07/2008 09:28:41 PM · #1
I a newbie to DSLR.

Was wondering if anyone can point me to quick reference on how to take action photos?

Mainly sporting events... currently I am trying to photograph my son's wrestling events. Next it will be track and field.

I tried it on sports mode with auto focus but most were blured.

I have a Cannon Rebel XT with a Tamron 28-300mm zoom len.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
02/07/2008 10:36:20 PM · #2
Indoors, your biggest challenge will be getting enough light to be able to shoot at a fast enough shutter speed to avoid blurring the motion. The solution to that is either to use flash, which may be distracting (and possibly not allowed), or to get faster glass. I'd suggest the faster glass route... Here's a link to rent the Canon 85mm f/1.4 lens. It only costs $25 to rent it for a week. Then if you decide that solution works for you ... you can rent it again, or consider purchasing it.

02/07/2008 10:43:12 PM · #3
I have problems with this as well. My son plays basketball and I have shot all 4 of his games so far and each time I try different settings. Getting better.

I shoot with my 70-200 lens and set my f stop at 4. I set my shutter speed to 1/100 and I set my ISO at 1600 this last time, but my photos turned out grainy.

I want to get faster lens, but probably wont get it until the end of the season anyway.

I say go to the practices (if he has practice) and try a different combo of settings and see what works for you.
02/07/2008 11:18:37 PM · #4
Well from my experience with your exact setup. Try this:
Set the main dial to Tv
Set shutter speed roughly 125
Adjust the exposure for +2
The ISO at 800 or 1600
and brace the heck out of yourself if you are not using a monopod or a tirpod.

Thou my fave lens from my tamron collection is the 28-80. It is possible to get some great shots especially if you know wrestling and how the wrestlers might react to a certain move, so you can be sure where you are focusing at to get the action.

here are some examples of my wrestling events here from this season.
Iowa Falls High School Wrestlers folder
Edit to add: feel free to pm any questions you may have and I will sure to try and help you.

Message edited by author 2008-02-07 23:20:24.
02/07/2008 11:25:49 PM · #5
If allowed, a monopod would be a lot of help at lower shutter speeds. You will still get some of the motion of the subjects, but sometimes that's a good thing.
02/08/2008 04:08:25 PM · #6
Well my son had his school program today and I tried some of the suggestions given and I think I've came to the conclusion the Tamron telephoto I have is not fast enough to get a good picture.

When I was fully zoomed out the aperture was blinking so I suspect I was doing something wrong...
02/08/2008 04:33:23 PM · #7
Don't worry about the aperture blinking at you. It is the camera telling you that there is an issue, but it doesn't mean you can't take the picture. I've just started shooting some ice hockey and I had the same problems at first with my Sigma 28-200. I'm now shooting at 1600 ISO and 1/200 to 1/250, and working with the post processing. I even used my 100-400 L glass and I did ok. I did rent a 28-200 2.8 L glass a week ago and those pictures were much better and I am going to start saving to buy that lens.

I haven't done any basketball or wrestling, so maybe the lighting is worse? Just keep trying and you'll find the set up that works.

02/08/2008 04:37:33 PM · #8
I did snap about 100+ photos but some are really dark.... I'm not sure if there even a way to clean those up in some sort of photo editing software or not.
02/08/2008 05:01:56 PM · #9
Originally posted by kswanson:

Well my son had his school program today and I tried some of the suggestions given and I think I've came to the conclusion the Tamron telephoto I have is not fast enough to get a good picture.

When I was fully zoomed out the aperture was blinking so I suspect I was doing something wrong...


Ahh just checked your lens yes fully zoomed will cause you alot of problems being it is 6.3 at full zoom. Try to keep the zoom range at no more than 150-200mm. This will help some but you need abit faster glass.
02/08/2008 07:53:08 PM · #10
And when you say a faster glass you mean a glass with a low 'f' number?

What would be some suggested lenses.
02/08/2008 08:08:20 PM · #11
Originally posted by taddzilla:

I did rent a 28-200 2.8 L glass a week ago


Ummm... who makes a 28-200 f/2.8 lens? By the L designation I assume you mean Canon, but I don't think I've ever run across an f/2.8 lens with that much zoom range. Maybe you meant 70-200 instead?
02/08/2008 11:26:39 PM · #12
Yes faster glass would mean a lower f # 2.8 or 1.8.

Now being faster will mean most times a higher price tag.

but here are some possible suggestions for you.
Tamron AF 70-200mm f2.8 Di LD Zoom Lens for Canon EOS
Sigma APO 50-150mm f2.8 EX DC Zoom Lens for Canon EOS
Canon EF 70-200mm f2.8L Image Stabilized USM Zoom Lens
Canon EF 70-200mm f2.8L USM High Speed Zoom Lens
02/08/2008 11:30:30 PM · #13
Originally posted by dwterry:

Originally posted by taddzilla:

I did rent a 28-200 2.8 L glass a week ago


Ummm... who makes a 28-200 f/2.8 lens? By the L designation I assume you mean Canon, but I don't think I've ever run across an f/2.8 lens with that much zoom range. Maybe you meant 70-200 instead?


Sorry, made a typo there. Yes, it was the Canon 70-200 L IS USM 2.8.
02/08/2008 11:33:20 PM · #14
Originally posted by taddzilla:

Sorry, made a typo there. Yes, it was the Canon 70-200 L IS USM 2.8.


No problem... the thing is, if they could keep the chromatic abberation (CA) in check, a 28-200 f/2.8 would be an awesome piece of glass. So in a way I was kinda hoping I was wrong and you'd tell me where you found such a lens. :(

02/09/2008 12:14:28 AM · #15
Originally posted by dwterry:



No problem... the thing is, if they could keep the chromatic abberation (CA) in check, a 28-200 f/2.8 would be an awesome piece of glass. So in a way I was kinda hoping I was wrong and you'd tell me where you found such a lens. :(


If they made it I'm sure I'd either in front of or behind you in line, with credit card in hand. :)
02/09/2008 01:15:09 AM · #16
Kris, You may not have the experience necessary to shoot with an all manual lens, but if you get an adapter for Canon FD lens to EOS body, you will be able to use the older Canon manual focus FD lenses. Some of those, esp the prime (not zoom) can be bought on line and at pawn shops for very little cash compared to the current line of fast Canon lenses. The 135mm f2.8 was a very popular portrait lens for 35mm film, so they are inexpensive because they are plentiful.
I use older Nikon lenses with my Fuji more than I do the auto ones that I have, and get excellent results with them.
On the EOS, you would normally have to use stopped down metering, but since you would be wanting to shoot at the max aperture for low light, it would not cause any problem in that respect. Just shoot, look at the LCD display preview, and adjust shutter speed until it looks correctly exposed, and keep shooting at that setting.
They also make adapters to put Nikon and other lenses on EOS cameras.

Message edited by author 2008-02-09 01:22:29.
02/09/2008 01:26:56 AM · #17
What about this lens....

Ebay may not be the place to shop for a lens....but..I found this one.

Sigma APO 70-200mm f2.8 EX DG HSM Lens -- Canon -- Used

//cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=220199808039&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=012
02/09/2008 02:06:45 AM · #18
All of the lenses that I use came from eBay and pawn shops and flea markets. You need to be sure about what the item costs new before buying a used one. I would also see about the sellers return policy and check on a "Square Trade Warranty" which is available for a lot of eBay items like that. I have an old Sigma 15mm 2.8 fisheye that I love, and a Sigma 400 5.6 that is not much force compared with my Nikon lenses. CA is a big problem with the 400 but it was an older model, and may have been knocked out of alignment at some time before I got it.
That's a good looking lens that you are thinking about, so search out reviews on it if you think you may buy it. Both the Sigmas that I have seem to be very well built mechanically, and the 15mm is just awesome.
I have looked at Photography Review's site, and see that it sells for about $900 new, and gets very good reviews. I would still also get a monopod if you can. It will help a lot with steadiness, and make it a lot easier to hold up the lens camera combination for long periods of time while shooting sports.

Message edited by author 2008-02-09 02:16:20.
02/10/2008 07:56:30 PM · #19
Well... I spent most of today scanning ebay, scanning DPC, and I still have not arrived at a lens to purchase for action shots. I'm sorta frustrated and want to make the best purchase for the money I can...I want the lens to be versitle. (Perhaps I have an unrealistic expectation)...

If money was no object I know what I would buy.... however, I need to spend less than a thousand dollars.. probably more in the 400-800 range..

Anyone have any suggestions for me?

I was looking at the sigma lenses but I'm not sure how good they are...

Again, I mainly want a lens that I can use to take photos of sporting events in schools and then probably track and field as well as football. (I have two children in school).

Any help or guidance would be apprecaited. thanks.

Message edited by author 2008-02-10 19:57:29.
02/10/2008 08:07:03 PM · #20
If you are looking for a sports lens on a budget, that is going to depend on what sport you are shooting and what access that you have. You need F2.8 or faster lens. And you need a camera with an AF system that can drive that lens. I would suggest that you get either a 50 F1.4 or an 85 F1.8 both of which will work for indoor sports with good access. If you have a gym with poor light these will help with your low light. If you need more reach you can go with the Canon or Sigma 70-200 F2.8, both of which can be bought on the used by/sell boards close to the range you are in. I prefer the canon without IS, IS doesnt help you with sports as your shutter speed needs to be up there to stop the action. Bump your ISO way up, I'd personally rather deal with a bit of noise then with alot of motion blur. Some blur is OK at times, and even adds to the shot.

MattO

Article by one of the sports shooters who was a member here.
Sports shooting.

Message edited by author 2008-02-10 20:09:44.
02/10/2008 08:57:56 PM · #21
Of the smaller lenses you suggest the 50 and 85mm do those need to be USM?
02/10/2008 09:18:37 PM · #22
I shoot for the local paper you will have to use a flash with most high school gym lighting. I have never had a problem with using the flash. Just do not use the flash when they are shooting free throws. I have the fast glass and still have to use the flash. The fast glass just lets me turn the flash down so the cycle time is faster. With the f2.8 I shoot at 250 shutter with flash in man. at 1/16 power this turns out great. You can do the same with higher f numbers you just have to turn your flash up. I have found you need at least a 250 shutter or you get ghosting and blur.
02/10/2008 09:25:17 PM · #23
i'm leaning towards this one... but have not committed yet.

Sigma Zoom Wide Angle-Telephoto 24-70mm f/2.8 EX DG Macro DF Autofocus Lens
02/10/2008 10:40:01 PM · #24
Originally posted by moondog:

I shoot for the local paper you will have to use a flash with most high school gym lighting. I have never had a problem with using the flash. Just do not use the flash when they are shooting free throws. I have the fast glass and still have to use the flash. The fast glass just lets me turn the flash down so the cycle time is faster. With the f2.8 I shoot at 250 shutter with flash in man. at 1/16 power this turns out great. You can do the same with higher f numbers you just have to turn your flash up. I have found you need at least a 250 shutter or you get ghosting and blur.


Unless you have your ISO down far enough that the flash is your light, then 1/250th is not near fast enough shutter speed for high school sports, and certainly not for college level sports. If you are over powering ambient by 3-4 stops then yes its fast enough as the flash duration will freeze the action, otherwise you will get alot of blur. Depending on the speed of the players you can and will still get some blur at 1/400th which is my slowest shutter speed for almost all sports, except wrestling, unless I'm overpowering ambient with my strobes.

MattO
02/10/2008 10:43:45 PM · #25
Originally posted by kswanson:

Of the smaller lenses you suggest the 50 and 85mm do those need to be USM?


Yes they do, the 50 1.8 is slow focusing and hunts in low light, the 50 F1.4 is the lens I'm referring too, and the 85 F1.8 is also a USM lens.

MattO
Pages:  
Current Server Time: 09/24/2021 03:16:06 PM

Please log in or register to post to the forums.


Home - Challenges - Community - League - Photos - Cameras - Lenses - Learn - Prints! - Help - Terms of Use - Privacy - Top ^
DPChallenge, and website content and design, Copyright © 2001-2021 Challenging Technologies, LLC.
All digital photo copyrights belong to the photographers and may not be used without permission.
Proudly hosted by Sargasso Networks. Current Server Time: 09/24/2021 03:16:06 PM EDT.