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01/24/2007 03:27:11 PM · #351 |
| Y'all forgotten already about the prohibition on threadjacking? Don't make me start hiding posts -- this is a "green" thread, not a pink one ... : ( |
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01/24/2007 03:31:21 PM · #352 |
Sorry. [ ursula looks contrite, or tries to ]
Carry on with the minimal discussion. |
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01/24/2007 03:33:02 PM · #353 |
Originally posted by GeneralE:
Y'all forgotten already about the prohibition on threadjacking? Don't make me start hiding posts -- this is a "green" thread, not a pink one ... : ( |
Should we all point out that it was the SC member that started the threadjack in the first place ?
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01/24/2007 03:46:50 PM · #354 |
Originally posted by Gordon:
Should we all point out that it was the SC member that started the threadjack in the first place ? |
Thanks -- you've already taken care of that nicely. |
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01/24/2007 04:18:52 PM · #355 |
| Sorry if this has been covered. I know you can use the regular sharpen but is there a limit on the number of times? can you only do it once? |
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01/24/2007 04:21:10 PM · #356 |
Originally posted by jaded_youth:
Sorry if this has been covered. I know you can use the regular sharpen but is there a limit on the number of times? can you only do it once? |
Yes, you can run that filter more than once -- I think it came up a few pages back ... |
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01/24/2007 04:22:21 PM · #357 |
Originally posted by GeneralE:
Originally posted by jaded_youth:
Sorry if this has been covered. I know you can use the regular sharpen but is there a limit on the number of times? can you only do it once? |
Yes, you can run that filter more than once -- I think it came up a few pages back ... |
Thanks! |
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01/24/2007 04:30:53 PM · #358 |
15 pages of posts. Not exactly minimal discussion...
:)
Message edited by author 2007-01-24 16:31:06.
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01/24/2007 04:55:52 PM · #359 |
Ugh!!
This "No USM" rule is killing me. I can take a good shot using the sharpen tools inside the camera as long as I view the shot at it's original size. Once I alter the size i need to sharpen it again. The one-step sharpen tools are oversharpening the image at the smaller size. Now I can't re-size in smaller incruments to keep the details sharp.
Can we split RGB and use one?
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01/24/2007 05:02:21 PM · #360 |
Originally posted by Gringo:
Ugh!!
This "No USM" rule is killing me. I can take a good shot using the sharpen tools inside the camera as long as I view the shot at it's original size. Once I alter the size i need to sharpen it again. The one-step sharpen tools are oversharpening the image at the smaller size. Now I can't re-size in smaller incruments to keep the details sharp.
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I know what you mean! have you tried a different resizing algorithm?
I would've like to sharpen my shot just a bit, but the Sharpen filter in CS just over does it, so I'm opting out of sharpening compared to over sharpening. |
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01/24/2007 05:31:00 PM · #361 |
Originally posted by Techo:
I know what you mean! have you tried a different resizing algorithm?
I would've like to sharpen my shot just a bit, but the Sharpen filter in CS just over does it, so I'm opting out of sharpening compared to over sharpening. |
I'm still trying everything. If I could resize several times, I could calculate the size of the image that best fits with the sharpen tool and then resize to a final size. Right now I am checking the differences in the sharpen tools from one program to another. I'm not real excited about showing work that is less than it could be.
I just needed to throw a tantrum.
I want USM !!!!!!!!!!!!
But.... I'll figure out how to do it without it.
I hope. |
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01/24/2007 06:07:02 PM · #362 |
Originally posted by Gringo:
This "No USM" rule is killing me. I can take a good shot using the sharpen tools inside the camera as long as I view the shot at it's original size. |
Sharpen at full size, then resize. If that's not sharp enough, undo the resize, sharpen a second a second time at full size, and resize. Keep at it until you find a happy medium. The "sharpen" filter is mostly way too aggressive to use on the smaller images.
R.
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01/24/2007 06:27:47 PM · #363 |
don't worry too much - i bet they'll be some entries that are - less than perfect - in ways more obvious than your sharpening issue...
Originally posted by Gringo:
I'm still trying everything. If I could resize several times, I could calculate the size of the image that best fits with the sharpen tool and then resize to a final size. Right now I am checking the differences in the sharpen tools from one program to another. I'm not real excited about showing work that is less than it could be. |
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01/24/2007 07:03:48 PM · #364 |
| One of the difficulties I'm running into is that what you see through the viewfinder isn't exactly the same as what you get in your image (it's a bit smaller). Makes a person be very careful to take off a bit at the edges when framing the image. |
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01/24/2007 07:10:23 PM · #365 |
Originally posted by ursula:
One of the difficulties I'm running into is that what you see through the viewfinder isn't exactly the same as what you get in your image (it's a bit smaller). Makes a person be very careful to take off a bit at the edges when framing the image. |
I hadn't considered that...... Should I throw a tantrum to have crop added as well? I think we should be able to crop.
Can we split RGB to get to a Black/White???
(Bear_Music, thank you for the info!!!) |
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01/24/2007 07:14:58 PM · #366 |
Originally posted by Gringo:
Originally posted by ursula:
One of the difficulties I'm running into is that what you see through the viewfinder isn't exactly the same as what you get in your image (it's a bit smaller). Makes a person be very careful to take off a bit at the edges when framing the image. |
I hadn't considered that...... Should I throw a tantrum to have crop added as well? I think we should be able to crop.
Can we split RGB to get to a Black/White???
(Bear_Music, thank you for the info!!!) |
Nah, no tantrum. Just re-think framing a tad.
As for B/W, the allowed is "basic" black and white conversion. I don't know what that means. What does it mean? There's like a 100 ways to convert to B/W, and more than one is "basic" I think. |
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01/24/2007 07:15:14 PM · #367 |
Originally posted by ursula:
One of the difficulties I'm running into is that what you see through the viewfinder isn't exactly the same as what you get in your image (it's a bit smaller). Makes a person be very careful to take off a bit at the edges when framing the image. |
Just curious how your D200 viewfinder is, is it pretty even in the frame? I noticed mine has a right bias, almost every shot I take will show just a tad bit more on the left than what is in the viewfinder. Not much, and I have become accustomed to it since buying it. I would love one of those 100% viewfinders though. |
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01/24/2007 07:20:54 PM · #368 |
Originally posted by jaysonmc:
Originally posted by ursula:
One of the difficulties I'm running into is that what you see through the viewfinder isn't exactly the same as what you get in your image (it's a bit smaller). Makes a person be very careful to take off a bit at the edges when framing the image. |
Just curious how your D200 viewfinder is, is it pretty even in the frame? I noticed mine has a right bias, almost every shot I take will show just a tad bit more on the left than what is in the viewfinder. Not much, and I have become accustomed to it since buying it. I would love one of those 100% viewfinders though. |
Mine adds a little all around, minimal at top (almost nothing), a bit on each side, and a larger portion at the bottom. It's not much, but when you can't crop or clone out small intrusions, then it's a problem. |
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01/24/2007 07:31:04 PM · #369 |
Originally posted by ursula:
Originally posted by Gringo:
Can we split RGB to get to a Black/White???
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As for B/W, the allowed is "basic" black and white conversion. I don't know what that means. What does it mean? There's like a 100 ways to convert to B/W, and more than one is "basic" I think. |
Split RGB - is as basic as it gets really. R-Red G-Green B-Blue. Using only one of the three colors that make up the color picture to create the B/W conversion. It often produces a cleaner image and no slider type tools are used. |
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01/24/2007 07:41:03 PM · #370 |
Yeh, the less-than-100% view of many DSLR viewfinders puts the DSLR crew at a slight disadvantage to the P&S crowd for accurate framing.
With regard to the sharpening dilemma, a few ideas:
- As Robert posted, sharpen before resizing is prolly the best bet, but
- You also can change your in-camera sharpening, as well as the capture resolution :-)
- You can only resize once, but you *can* choose the algorithm. There are several to choose from in PS: Bicubic Smoother, bicubic, and bicubic sharper are the main three, but bilinear and nearest neighbor could potentially be useful under certain conditions. Experiment!
- The combination of whether you sharpen up-front or after resizing, along with selection of resizing algorithm and selection of in-camera sharpening level, gives some flexibility to the resize/sharpen process.
The above ideas on sharpening and resizing are my own personal views, and not necessarily those of the SC at large, however they do, IMO, represent adherence to the letter and spirit of the Minimal Editing Rules.
With respect ot B+W conversion, the following Photoshop processes are OK:
- Image>Mode>Grayscale
- Image>Adjustments>Desaturate
Others may be OK as well, as long as they give no ability to tweak. the following are specifically not OK:
- Image>Adjustments>Channel Mixer
- Image>Adustments>Black & White (CS3 tool)
- Image>Adjutments>Hue/Saturation
- Any other user-controllable processes
I've used the Photoshop naming as that's what most of us are familiar with, but the same holds true for other software packages. Only non-user-controlled conversions are allowed in Minimal.
Message edited by author 2007-01-24 19:43:13. |
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01/24/2007 07:58:37 PM · #371 |
Originally posted by ursula:
Mine adds a little all around, minimal at top (almost nothing), a bit on each side, and a larger portion at the bottom. It's not much, but when you can't crop or clone out small intrusions, then it's a problem. |
I donno about other cameras, but my 20D seems to show the actual full frame in the playback on the LCD, even though the viewfinder crops a little. If those of you with the bigger 2 1/2 inch LCDs also see full frame, you have a great tool there. The 20D LCD is so small I have to magnify and scroll to be sure what I have going.
R.
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01/24/2007 08:00:31 PM · #372 |
I thought this a nice time to play with some new Cokin filters... glad I did. ;)
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01/24/2007 08:02:47 PM · #373 |
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
Originally posted by ursula:
Mine adds a little all around, minimal at top (almost nothing), a bit on each side, and a larger portion at the bottom. It's not much, but when you can't crop or clone out small intrusions, then it's a problem. |
I donno about other cameras, but my 20D seems to show the actual full frame in the playback on the LCD, even though the viewfinder crops a little. If those of you with the bigger 2 1/2 inch LCDs also see full frame, you have a great tool there. The 20D LCD is so small I have to magnify and scroll to be sure what I have going.
R. |
Playback on the D200 shows the full image, but playback only happens after the fact (or is the 20D different that way?). In other words, you're still stuck with having to compensate while framing with the viewfinder. It is a problem if you're trying to get a small object exactly at the bottom of the image. Normally, I'd crop a tad (and possibly rotate to make exact) - now the challenge is to figure out how much to compensate to get it where I want it.
I'm not planning on entering, so I'm not giving away my entry. I was just having fun experimenting with the idea. |
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01/24/2007 08:08:39 PM · #374 |
Originally posted by ursula:
Playback on the D200 shows the full image, but playback only happens after the fact (or is the 20D different that way?). In other words, you're still stuck with having to compensate while framing with the viewfinder. It is a problem if you're trying to get a small object exactly at the bottom of the image. Normally, I'd crop a tad (and possibly rotate to make exact) - now the challenge is to figure out how much to compensate to get it where I want it.
I'm not planning on entering, so I'm not giving away my entry. I was just having fun experimenting with the idea. |
Yeah, for sure. It's after the fact. Use tripod, frame, test shot, chimp, adjust, test, then fire off some bracketed exposures when you have it composed. Pain in the keister. Sadly enough, the image I'm using was shot before I figured this out, LOL. Nothing I've done since pleases me as much. It's probably doomed anyway, though, since it's a defiantly non-DPC-style image :-)
R.
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01/24/2007 08:26:01 PM · #375 |
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
Originally posted by ursula:
Playback on the D200 shows the full image, but playback only happens after the fact (or is the 20D different that way?). In other words, you're still stuck with having to compensate while framing with the viewfinder. It is a problem if you're trying to get a small object exactly at the bottom of the image. Normally, I'd crop a tad (and possibly rotate to make exact) - now the challenge is to figure out how much to compensate to get it where I want it.
I'm not planning on entering, so I'm not giving away my entry. I was just having fun experimenting with the idea. |
Yeah, for sure. It's after the fact. Use tripod, frame, test shot, chimp, adjust, test, then fire off some bracketed exposures when you have it composed. Pain in the keister. Sadly enough, the image I'm using was shot before I figured this out, LOL. Nothing I've done since pleases me as much. It's probably doomed anyway, though, since it's a defiantly non-DPC-style image :-)
R. |
Maybe I'll like it :) |
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