Portrait Lighting -- Learning Thread

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8G ED

01/24/2007 09:26:23 PM · #426

Originally posted by alfresco:

Once again cindi is Web Wonder Woman!!!

LOL I'm not wearing that outfit!!

alfresco

Nikon D700

01/24/2007 09:56:00 PM · #427

Originally posted by idnic:

Originally posted by alfresco:
Once again cindi is Web Wonder Woman!!!

LOL I'm not wearing that outfit!!

Then where did this come from?!?

[/hijack]

Message edited by author 2007-01-24 21:56:14.

01/24/2007 10:15:11 PM · #428

LOL I thought I burned those negatives! Damn paparazzi!

Claya

Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 II

02/04/2007 11:42:09 PM · #429

OK, so Cindy care to give a critique on a first serious portrait lighting attempt?

Here's the shot:

Used full flash into umbrella 45 degrees to camera right and SB-25 full at wall behind to blow out background.

02/04/2007 11:57:24 PM · #430

Originally posted by Claya:

Used full flash into umbrella 45 degrees to camera right and SB-25 full at wall behind to blow out background.

Here's what I'd recommend:

- Keep the pose, keep the camera angle
- But move your main light over to camera left

This will put the broad side of the face into shadow. Right now the broad side of the face is getting the most light, the most emphasis, the most attention. That makes the face look fatter than it is. (a good idea for an overly skinny person, but not so good for everyone else)

Give it a try and see if you prefer the results.

Claya

Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 II

02/05/2007 07:44:51 AM · #431

David, won't the change you suggest cause reflection problems on the glasses?

02/05/2007 08:11:53 AM · #432

Originally posted by Claya:

David, won't the change you suggest cause reflection problems on the glasses?

You'll have to watch for it, yes. But just remember that the reflection bounces at the same angle as the light source to the subject. Meaning, you can easily position the light source so that the reflection bounces away from, rather than towards, the camera.

One trick used by many photographers is to lift up the backs of the glasses, just a bit, to point the glass (and the reflection) downward. But if you already have your lights up high (45 degree angle to the face), then that trick is not necessary because the light is already going to bounce downward anyway.

02/05/2007 08:43:27 AM · #433

Hi Clay. I think David gives some good advice here. Overall the quality of light is good as is the overall exposure with the lights. Definitely play around with the position of the lights. 45 degrees is mentioned often in books, etc., but isn't a rule and doesn't work for every portrait, its just a nice place to start. Also I would add that your portrait looks to need a touch of sharpening, probably because of resizing. Keep up the good work. :)

Claya

Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 II

02/05/2007 02:18:01 PM · #434

Yea, now that you mention it, I did forget my normal step of sharpening after resizing. Thanks.

Axleuk

Canon EOS-5D Mark III

Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS

02/06/2007 03:24:28 AM · #435

I just want to "HOLD EVERYTHING" for one moment to say a big thanks to Cindi for starting this thread and everyone else that has contributed so far, i can see this thread lasting a long time.

As a virgin photographer (new to photography, not a fetish for shooting virgins, although theres a thought)it is important that information like this is available and in an easy to understand format and where possible illistrated. So far, the information contained within has been both interesting and informative and even though i am not in a position to go out and buy studio equipment and practice, this forum has given me the knowledge to at least educate myself for the future.

I think it is important that those with experience help pass on that knowledge to us folk with the desire to learn, so again, many thanks Cindi for this thread and perhaps we can see many more specialist threads of this calibre pop up in the future.

Now then...while i am here may i ask a few questions.

1. How do you make the backdrop show up so white and bright in shots and can any post a pic of their setup.

2. Are there any ways of making your own lights from potentially cheap equipment, if so, how ?

Thanks

02/06/2007 07:39:28 AM · #436

Originally posted by Axleuk:

1. How do you make the backdrop show up so white and bright in shots and can any post a pic of their setup.

You might have already stumbled across this thread, since it's pretty recent, but in case you missed it, see if it answers your questions.

02/06/2007 09:13:35 AM · #437

Welcome, Paul. I'm glad you are finding this thread helpful.

To your questions - White backgrounds are achieved by lighting the background seperately and a bit brighter than the foreground, the thread David linked is a good discussion of the process.

Lots of people have started portrait work using inexpensive shop lights from HomeDepot, but those lights get very hot and it is hard to use them for long periods of time. Your best bet is to buy one strobe, learn to use it, practice with it, etc.... when you can, buy another strobe and build your collection over time.

Nowaytotell

Sigma 28-70mm f/2.8-4.0 Aspherical DG for Canon

02/06/2007 09:28:58 AM · #438

just wanted to say it looks as though all this info is going to be helpful..thanks for taking the time to post it

Gordon

RIM BlackBerry Curve

Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM

02/06/2007 10:01:48 AM · #439

I got some small strobes for Christmas and have just started doing some more lit portraits. These are the first couple of attempts & if anyone has any feedback, it would be very welcome.

First one, flash low behind his chair, zoomed to a narrow beam, with a green gel, hitting a green wall. Another flash camera left, into an umbrella.

Second shot, sunlight camera right, flash into umbrella camera left with a CTO gel to warm the light up a touch, to match with the late evening sunlight.

Message edited by author 2007-02-06 10:10:40.

02/06/2007 10:17:05 AM · #440

Hey Gordon. I LOVE the first one with the green bg. Things done right: you lit the face from the side which gives nice directional light with good definition, you separated the subject from the background with additional light and even the off-center composition adds pop to the image. Nice job. The outdoor shot is harder to judge because the sunlight is dominating the shot overall. That said, the shot would not have worked at all if you hadn't used the fill-flash, so kudos for that. Both images have a very clean and crisp look that does well with stock agencies. Definitely sellable work.

Gordon

RIM BlackBerry Curve

Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM

02/06/2007 10:49:50 AM · #441

Originally posted by idnic:

The outdoor shot is harder to judge because the sunlight is dominating the shot overall.

Actually it really isn't, though it probably looks that way because of the gel on the strobe. The sun is just the hair accent in the far top right. Most of the light is from the flash. I should have said that the sun is to the right, but behind her (basically pointing towards me). Mostly in that shot I wanted to get a picture of her with her funky pants on and found somewhere that had a similarly themed and coloured background (the stripped decking). My main problem is never knowing how to pose someone. I can manage a head and expressions but the rest of the body seems to confound me :)

Thanks for the comments.

Message edited by author 2007-02-06 10:50:18.

Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II

02/06/2007 12:36:39 PM · #442

Yeah! Love that first shot with the green background. Outstanding work!

snaffles

Nikon D7100

02/06/2007 12:39:03 PM · #443

Maybe this will help:

//www.tabletopstudio.com/documents/TTS_LIGHT_MYTHS.htm

Good luck!

wavelength

Nikon D300

Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D

02/11/2007 03:52:49 PM · #444

Article on portrait lighting with some good diagrams, found this on Strobist.

It's amazing the quality of pictures that you can get from a single strobe, cool ideas to try/dream about.

Message edited by author 2007-02-11 15:54:16.

angela_packard

Canon EOS-20D

Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6

02/11/2007 04:15:18 PM · #445

posting to this so i can keep ahold of it!

jjbates4

Nikon D70s

Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8

02/26/2007 02:05:26 PM · #446

Hi Cindi
I have started doing headshots for my girlfriend (who is an opera singer) and now more and more of her friends are asking whether I do headshots. This is my first venture into this area of photography and I was hoping for a little feedback on one of the examples. I appreciate your time and find this thread invaluable.

Headshot 1

Mattel Barbie Photo Designer Digital Camera

02/26/2007 02:51:22 PM · #447

Hey there, Justin. The portrait looks nice. Good smooth lighting. I think that one would convert to B/W well too. One thing to watch, if possible try to simplify your lighting so there are fewer catchlights in the eyes. If there are windows nearby you could cover them or try a slightly different angle. One more nit - the drape of her dress across her shoulder is nice, but gets cropped out of the image, pay attention with your framing that you get a flattering balance... otherwise posing is nice.

digitalknight

02/26/2007 03:10:49 PM · #448

would love some feed back on some images that I'm trying to learn lighting with...

rock&roll 01
rock&roll 02

I shouldn't post the others since they are in/going to be in challenges. But any input is welcome...

jjbates4

Nikon D70s

Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8

02/26/2007 03:28:33 PM · #449

cindi,

i agree totally with the catchlights, in fact was already wondering how to pose her differently. is it traditionally understood that headshots usually show shoulders? i do understand what you are getting at here though. I suppose i was more afraid of including the rest of the shoulder but having it look like a floating head. Thanks!
J