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04/18/2004 10:54:36 AM · #1 |
While i was in San Francisco i stumbled across a gallery full of pics by Rodney Lough Jnr. He had some absolutely amazing photos. The pics that impressed me the most were his waterfall shots. He seemed to get the waterfall looking like silk.
Waterfall Pic Apologies for the small pic!!
Now i know he used film to take the shots and his camera was set up as follows:
Lens 210mm
Aperture f64
Exposure 7 Seconds.
I have a Fuji S7000, i know it's not an SLR but i'm sure i can get this type of shot with the limited kit i own.
Please help me i'm a beginner with loads to learn, but i'm sure i'm not on my own when i admit i want good results fast!!!!
Cheers
Bri |
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04/18/2004 11:02:48 AM · #2 |
The hardest part is to not over expose. As you can see in the example you gave the aperture is f64 (very little light getting in there) which allowed the seven second exposure.
On your camera you'll probably have to use neutral density filters to allow you to do such slow exposures.
Flowing water is fun to experiment with. You can catch the sense of motion in the water with speeds as fast as 1/10 of a second and the water starts to look like silk when you get into the 1 to 2 second range.
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04/18/2004 11:09:47 AM · #3 |
| My camera only seems to go to f8 can i buy something to let me get the aperture smaller??? |
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04/18/2004 11:12:04 AM · #4 |
Originally posted by Sunbird:
My camera only seems to go to f8 can i buy something to let me get the aperture smaller??? |
You can't buy anything to make the aperture smaller but you can buy neutral density filters which basically darken the scene so you can use slower shutter speeds.
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04/18/2004 11:12:23 AM · #5 |
Originally posted by Sunbird:
My camera only seems to go to f8 can i buy something to let me get the aperture smaller??? |
nope, your gonna need filteres, like ND (neutral densities). The numbers following the filter means how much darker it can get the light. For example, an ND8 lets 4x less light into the camera than an ND2.
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04/18/2004 11:17:56 AM · #6 |
Example : (not the best but just to illustrate you don't need to go that slow to get the flowing water affect)
f16 and 1/10 of a second
On your camera, with max aperture of f8 the shutter speed would have to be 2 stops faster since f8 is 2 stops bigger than f16.
f32 and 30 seconds
edited to correct info (thanks Zal) and add second example
Message edited by author 2004-04-18 12:00:31.
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04/18/2004 11:57:10 AM · #7 |
Originally posted by cpanaioti:
On your camera, with max aperture of f8 the shutter speed would have to be 1 stop faster since f8 is 1 stop bigger than f16. |
Just a correction: f/8 is 2 stops bigger than f/16. (1 1.4 2 2.8 4 5.6 8 11 16 22 32) |
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04/18/2004 12:21:14 PM · #8 |
Originally posted by Sunbird:
My camera only seems to go to f8 can i buy something to let me get the aperture smaller??? |
The S7000 goes from f2.8 to f11
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04/18/2004 12:33:32 PM · #9 |
This was taken at f2.8 1/6 of a sec.
at dusk around 9 o clock in the evening, this also helps
Geo
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04/18/2004 12:43:57 PM · #10 |
F 8.0 at 1/30.
It was early in the day and very dark here. I wanted to render the falls so that its sheer speed was still discernible, yet still managed a slight overexposure of the whites. It takes a lil practice.
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04/18/2004 03:42:22 PM · #11 |
| Chin, do you have any idea how to get my cam down to f11? in man mode the smallest i can get is f8. |
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04/18/2004 03:48:39 PM · #12 |
I looked on dpReview and it says it only goes to f8. The S602 goes to f11.
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04/18/2004 04:12:43 PM · #13 |
I'm using a Kodak DX4330. I'm not sure if it has f-stop, but it has long-time exposure, and exposure compensation. Can these be used the same way?
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04/18/2004 04:36:29 PM · #14 |
Here are a couple pics that I've done recently using longer exposures for water. This one:
//www.pbase.com/image/28082451
was shot with a polarizer to cut down on light a bit, and was an 0.8 second exposure.
This one:
//www.pbase.com/image/28082452
was 0.5 second exposure, hand-held (but braced on a railing). Took me a few shots to get one without shake.
I like to keep the exposure around 1/2 second to 1 second if I can, which means shooting when light levels are low. If you shoot in full sunlight, about six stops of light reduction will be necesary to get into this shutter speed range.
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04/20/2004 06:39:52 AM · #15 |
Originally posted by cpanaioti:
I looked on dpReview and it says it only goes to f8. The S602 goes to f11. |
Your right - first site I looked at said it went to f11 - apologies.
//www.dcviews.com/_fuji/s7k.htm
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04/20/2004 07:32:17 AM · #16 |
Sunbird. Maybe you dont have to expose for such a long time to get similar effect, try 1 or 2 sec. It all depends on the situation but all the same you always have to use small apperture and probably some light capturing glass like ND-filters.
Remeber to that for such a long exposure you always will need a triphod or some kind of a support, impossible to handheld. It can also be good to use timer settings or a remote control to avoid all shaking when pushing the shutter button. |
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04/20/2004 08:23:45 AM · #17 |
Originally posted by sbrandt:
I'm using a Kodak DX4330. I'm not sure if it has f-stop, but it has long-time exposure, and exposure compensation. Can these be used the same way? |
All cameras have f stops. These refer to the aperature of the lens. The amount of control you have depends on the camera.
Either full manual or shutter priority modes are very helpful to achieve the affects discussed here. Set the shutter speed to anywhere between 1/30 of a second to 2 seconds depending on the speed of the water being captured. The slower the water the slower the shutter speed required to actually capture the motion.
Check your camera's manual regarding the modes available to you. |
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