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09/26/2011 05:59:45 AM · #1 |
| I have a 10 -20mm Sigma lense and used it on my Canon 20D, I really like it but I have since upgraded to a Canon 5D Mk II and apparently I need to convert the lense so it will work with the new camera. I Was just wondering if anyone else has had to do this and what were the results as it is quite expensive to get it done here in NZ. |
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09/26/2011 07:54:06 AM · #2 |
I would have though it would be better to sell it and get a 16-35 (if you have the budget) which will be the virtually same zoom as the 10-20 as on the 20d there is the 1.6x crop factor.
For a lower budget one of the 17- lenses will be virtually as wide as the 10 for a lot less money than the 16-35
Don't try and put the 10-20 lens on the 5d (without modification) as you could damage the camera! |
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09/26/2011 09:23:49 AM · #3 |
You can make it fit, with some grinding and the like, but I'd advise against it. The mirror on the 5D may strike the rear of the lens, which will damage your camera and may damage the lens!! It will also vignette, probably to s significant degree.
Your best bet is to pick up a Sigma 12-24, which is designed for full frame cameras. It's the widest rectilinear (non-fisheye) lens available for full frame cameras. I love mine. |
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09/26/2011 10:45:01 AM · #4 |
As posted by  bobonacus, what you are really after is a 16-35 or 17-40 lens to match the focal length range. I find that 17mm is *really* wide on FF. I really don't have any desire to go wider with a rectilinear lens (I do have a couple fisheyes). When I need more angular coverage with rectilinear, I'm more inclined to actually go *longer* and stitch a pano. I get a *lot* more detail in the final image, and I have the flexibility to control my aspect ratio.
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09/26/2011 02:24:14 PM · #5 |
Originally posted by Spork99:
Your best bet is to pick up a Sigma 12-24, which is designed for full frame cameras. It's the widest rectilinear (non-fisheye) lens available for full frame cameras. I love mine. |
used to have the sigma 10-20, but when my camera fell in a river with the lens, i decided to spend the insurance money on the 12-24.. great lens, even though im using it on the 7d |
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09/26/2011 02:42:04 PM · #6 |
If you want an equivalent field of view...get something in the 16mm range and it will be roughly the same as you had with the 10-20 on your 20D. If you want W I D E angle, look at the Sigma 12-24.
I've never had much luck with stitching panoramas to simulate a wide angle shot. Usually, when I shoot with the 12-24, I have it at 12mm and I use the hyperfocus technique to get the main subject as close to the lens as possible while extending the DOF as far as possible towards infinity. I can understand how a stitched panorama would work to simulate a wide view of stuff "over there", but not so much near to far. |
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09/26/2011 05:44:21 PM · #7 |
| EF-S or not, I'll tell you the 10-20 vignettes majorly on full frame. By majorly I mean completely black well into the frame. It varies based on focal length but is always very prominent. I know this because I can mount my 10-20 on my F100. |
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09/27/2011 07:18:55 PM · #8 |
| Does any one have any example of shots that they have used with equivilent WIDE lenses? |
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09/27/2011 09:45:39 PM · #9 |
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09/27/2011 09:54:21 PM · #10 |
These were all shot with the 17-40 at Airventure 2009. None of them are awe-inspiring, LOL, but you get the idea of the wideness. About like 10.5mm on an APS-C camera.
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09/28/2011 03:48:22 AM · #11 |
I had the 12-24 on my 5d and 20d and loved it but need something quicker for music gig work so I traded up to a 16-35 which I adore but the sigma was a lovely lens. Bit distorted at edges at 12mm but can be corrected but that what you're going for with a 12mm anyway.
I wouldn't bother messing with it as you'll get a massive vignette effect and cut the appeal of the lens second hand by 95%. Over here the 12-24 carries a slight premium over the 10-24 but only £100 roughly for mint second hand ones, that's what I'd be doing.
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